Adventures in Guangzhou!

I am more than happy to help my Chinese students here attempt to decipher the quagmire of the American system, but there are a few things that either don't exist in Chinese etiquette or have been largely ignored by my students. I can't count how many times I've had students come up to me and say (not ask) "I need you to write me a recommendation for tomorrow." Tomorrow?? Wow. Now, having been a student myself and found myself in dire circumstances requiring a letter of rec for jobs, grad school, etc., I know the pressure they are under. However, when I've put a professor out to write a letter in 48 hours, I literally begged for it. It's not pretty, but it's sort of what you have to do. I remember my teachers in high school announced that they required four weeks notice for anything. Maybe my mistake was in not saying anything.

The other thing is that I guess the tangible thank-you doesn't really exist here either. I was always taught in the States that when a teacher (or anyone else) goes out of their way for you to write a recommendation, you give them some sort of gift to show your gratitude. A book. A gift certificate. A pen. Something. Here I get a sincere vocal thanks but that's about it. Now don't get me wrong--I'm not complaining that the kids don't shower me with gifts; rather, I think it's an interesting cultural difference.

As I've mentioned, teachers here are very close with their students. Head teachers, the closest thing to a homeroom teacher and/or advisor, follow their kids for all three years of senior middle school until they finish the college entrance exam. They go on day trips together with the class on the weekend. They check in on them at night in the classroom, even when they're not on duty. They're almost like an extension of the parents, especially for the large chunk of students that live on campus. So in this respect, it's almost like asking your dad to take care of an errand for you--you thank him, but you certainly don't go and buy him a gift (though I'm sure parents would appreciate that). I guess it's just expected and assumed to be part of your responsibilities as a teacher.

In this sense, I'm very happy to help and excited to see the results in a few months. I have a bunch of students, both from this year and last, that I'm really pulling for to get into top schools. It's tough though, and I know that they're not holding their breath. Participating in this whole process with my students has also made me realize that I'm just another teacher at the school. That may seem obvious to people reading this, but it's actually a major accomplishment that I've been striving for the past year and a half.

When I walk around campus, it's very rare that any students stop and stare at me. Instead, I get a smile and a hello from current students and former students alike. Co-workers do not interrogate me anymore about my personal life and history. We don't have awkward conversations about obvious cultural differences. Instead, I now get questions like, "how come you didn't play basketball yesterday?"

This also extends to the city as a whole. Though some people may still stare at me, I really don't notice anymore. If I happen to lock eyes with someone on a bus, I stare right back. I am probably more comfortable than I should be throwing elbows to get on the bus. Getting around the city is second nature now, using either buses, taxis, or the subway--I barely have to read the signs. I know exactly where to go for whatever I need, yet I am still discovering new and fun things (who knew there was such an amazing arcade at the top of Grandview?).

Though my Chinese is still miles away from being fluent, I am fully functional. I don't let cashiers give me ripped bills for change because I joke with them and ask them to change it. I can order the house special at a restaurant. I can shoot the breeze with the ladies in the copy room enough to know when they're poking fun at me and Nick. I can't understand a whole Chinese movie, but I can read the schedule to know when they'll have English subtitles!

All in all I think I've settled in and assimilated into a part of both the school community and the city as a whole. It feels great to be so comfortable in what used to be so foreign, but there a couple downsides as well. My tolerance for the basic conversations with strangers is almost non-existent, e.g. Can you use chopsticks? Your Chinese is amazing! How do you get around the city? Have you ever heard of mid-autumn festival? etc. I also have to watch myself when I respond to students who ask the same questions that I've gotten millions of times: no, everyone in America does not like George Bush; yes, I know how to say "hello" in Chinese; no, it is not acceptable to copy your classmate's homework; yes, high school students in America have boyfriends/girlfriends; etc.

I guess since I feel right at home here, I just assume that others will view me in the same light. Unfortunately having white skin automatically precludes me from ever being just another Guangzhou citizen. That's a tough realization to swallow, but I knew it going in. I'm just happy that I've come as far as I have...