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August 30, 2006

Drugs, gambling, drugs, development, and more drugs on Yunnan's borders



Yunnan province’s prime location (see map) means that we sit right on the intersection of China (world’s fastest growing economy) and Southeast Asia (world’s premier destination for opiates, sex tourism, and, in the case of Myanmar, scary governments). In the last few weeks, this crossroads has been particularly busy, with the following fascinating news items:

Gambling! Asia Times reports on Mong La, an infamous gambling destination that was apparently “shut down” by the Chinese government in 2005 because too many officials were unloading their stolen public money there, is just across our border with Burma. The last time I was down that way (Fall 2004) you could hardly uncurl yourself out of the cramped overnight bus cot before people would swarm you, offering to take you across the border to Mong La (illegally):

According to people familiar with the situation, China briefly sent a small number of troops into the remote region to enforce the travel ban and pressure casino operators to close down their operations. At one point, Chinese officials threatened to cut Mong La’s power supply, which is provided by Yunnan-based electricity generators. That hasn’t deterred Lin Mingxian, more widely known by the alias Sai Leun, the town’s overlord, who currently commands a 2,000-3,000-strong militia known as the National Democratic Alliance Army (NDAA). Sai Leun is believed to have financed much of the city’s gambling infrastructure in the late 1990s from cash he allegedly earned in the narcotics trade.

Nothing like the PRC to kill a good party. Anyway, this guy Sai Leun sounds pretty cool. He’s building a new set of casinos specifically designed to allow corrupt officials to continue unloading China’s public money without leaving home:

From the comfort of their homes in Beijing, Kunming or Shanghai, Chinese gamblers watch the tables via a live video feed over the Internet and place their bets through agents on location at the jungle casinos. The arrangement, says the casino operator, allows the players and casino operators to circumvent recent Chinese efforts to prevent the outflow of cash into Myanmar’s black markets.

The whole article is worth a read, because the freelance reporters who wrote it basically schmoozed around with this guy for a while and got to check out his whole operation. I don’t know who to root for here, though, since all the parties (Burmese and Chinese governments, drug-dealing casino-owning warlord) are not exactly morally upstanding.

Drugs! While we’re on the topic of morally questionable, let’s talk about China’s latest effort at international aid:

By this June, southwestern Yunnan Province has helped its bordering Cambodia and Laos to plant over 900,000 mu (60,000 hectares) cash-bearing crops to relieve their dependence on growing opium poppy, said sources with the local government. Sun Dahong, deputy director of the provincial department of public security said on Friday at the mobilization conference on poppy alternative development, that by the end of last year, the Yunnan government has developed 700,000-mu cash-bearing crops in the northern part of Cambodia and Laos, among which nearly 400,000 mu soil had been planted poppy originally.

Sounds like a great idea, and it might help to cut down on that heroin soaked panties issue that has been plagueing us lately. On the other hand, I just have to wonder how effective this program is going to be, since the Chinese are helping impoverished farmers replace opium poppy with “grain, rubber, rice, sugar cane, longan, tea and corn,” and the program detailed doesn’t seem to extend beyond planting new crops. Opium grown in these regions is very valuable and mostly destined for “export” to major cities or richer countries (China), whereas crops like grain and corn aren’t likely to be worth a whole lot. Another critical issue is infrastructure, longan requires efficient transportation to prevent spoilage, rubber and sugar cane aren’t that valuable unless you can do the value-added processing somewhere nearby. I seriously doubt that there are adequate roads, refrigerated trucks, or processing factories in rural mountainous regions of northern Laos.

Thinking about this problem reminded me of a blog entry by Sarah Chayes I’d read in the NY Times last month (I think it may only be available through Times Select) called “Why Farmers Grow Poppies.” Although she was writing about Afghanistan, her arguments ring true here in East too. She adds water scarcity to the list of motivations leading farmers to grow poppy, and then mentions:

Opium eradication campaigns target the lowest rung of the opium economy, the struggling farmers. Yet well-known traffickers strut around town, flaunting their connections with senior officials. They drive late-model S.U.V.’s. They buy up property at fantastic prices and build wedding cake villas — the kind that used to be rented out to al-Qaeda members.

Development! Apparently Kunming will be even more connected, between plans for a superhighway between here and Bangkok, and the proposed railroad line(s) between here and Singapore. So much for our reputation as a dull backwater:

China, which last month launched a rail track from Beijing to Tibet, has also shown renewed interest in ASEAN’s plan for a rail line spanning 5,000 kilometers (3,000 miles) from Singapore to the Chinese city of Kunming […] A rail line already runs from Singapore to Bangkok. From Bangkok, Ong said there are plans for two separate rail lines to Kunming. One rail track will snake across Cambodia and Vietnam, with a connecting track to Laos, while the other line will cut west through Myanmar.

This is going to make it a lot easier for us to get our opiates here in Kunming, just a comfy overnight train ride away. Not that procuring opiates in Kunming is difficult at the moment. This migrant worker has heard a few stories from her friends in the HIV prevention/needle exchange field.


August 27, 2006

For Noah, whose arm is broken

That’s what you get for combining alcohol and a trampoline (although, to be frank, I am not positive that those were the circumstances). After I heard about the disturbing near-compound fracture, I was pretty grossed out, and couldn’t help but think of it when I saw this amazing display of Noah brand products. On the upside, if that digital dictionary/translation tool was removed, you might be able to imply that this cardboard woman was describing Noah’s manhood. And I guess if one had a working left arm, that would only take about 30 seconds on Photoshop…
(Check out the original image on flickr, the devil’s in the details)

Earthquake hits Yunnan, no one tells me

The power was out in a large area surrounding my office on Thursday and Friday. This was not the first time that my office’s electricity was off for entire business days with little or no notice, but I’ve never really had much cause to complain about it, since it generally means I get to “work at home.” This time, however, I was feeling responsible, and ended up putting in most of a day on Friday to tie up some computerless odds and ends. It was a pretty lax day, and as usual my coworkers and I ended up talking politics over our extended lunch. There was a lot of speculation about the rolling blackouts, including that Yunnan province (which has an overall electricity surplus on the grid) sells more power than it should to the eastern seaboard where the price per watt may be twice as high.

My curiosity piqued, I decided to do some fact checking on Yunnan province and power generation, but instead I came across this in the China Daily:

At least two person (sic) is dead and 31 others injured, including 10 seriously, after an earthquake measuring 5.1 degrees on the Richter scale jolted Yanjin County, Zhaotong City, Southwest China’s Yunnan Province, at 1:51 p.m Friday.

A couple of things occur to me. First off, this area is, perhaps, a 6-hour drive from Kunming, and yet I managed to go two days without hearing a thing about this. I can’t blame it on the language barrier, I could understand TV, radio, or newspaper reports on this issue without any effort at all. I could hardly imagine an earthquake hitting Des Moines, Iowa and not hearing about it for two days, even when I was firmly ensconced in the Carleton bubble. I hate all the hackneyed government-run news sources, but I need to find some palatable way of staying up to date.

Second, I had no freaking idea where this area is until I looked it up. I know the counties and even some towns and villages in the geopolitically interesting southern border region and the bio and culturally diverse northwest, but there is a huge patch of northeastern Yunnan province that is off the radar of most NGOs, expats, tourists, and probably even local Chinese. I’m sure these people had little going for them before the quake. It is a harsh reminder not to rest on my laurels of geographic awareness and social consciousness if I have only focused on “interesting” or shall we say “sexy” areas of the province.

The article goes on to include this little gem:

Earlier reports said the death toll was two proved erroneous when it was discovered that the same victim had been counted twice, a spokesman with the Zhaotong municipal government told Xinhua.

Ahh, rural areas. This sounds like something straight out of my childhood in South Dakota. If there is only one dead person, how in the hell do you count it twice?

August 23, 2006

My favorite ice cream hits the "pages" of CNN

Everyone in Kunming goes to Salvadors a lot. They’ve got a pretty decent business going, built on the fact that they take good care of their staff so there is very little turnover, and thus, the service doesn’t suck. Also the ice cream is excellent, as in, if I were eating this in a boutique ice cream shop in the US, I wouldn’t be disappointed. Anyway, I was impressed to see this article from CNN… I wonder who covered this and why anyone from CNN — or even a freelancer— was down here in Kunming looking at businesses.

The guys who own Salvadors have done a great job leveraging their “restaurant” into a broader range of businesses, including selling packaged coffee (Starbucks style) and logo T-shirts (gotta get me one of those). Dunno if the article mentions this, but last I heard, the guys were looking into expanding to new locations around China. Great idea, but why would anyone want to leave Kunming?

One gap that needs to be filled here is a creative tour/trekking service based near Kunming… almost everyone on their way to Vietnam/Laos or Northwest Yunnan/Tibet is stuck here for a couple days twiddling their thumbs. Meimei’s Cafe (which may or may not still exist, since the entire city block it occupies in Jinghong was scheduled for demolition) used to do a good job of this for backpackers in Xishuangbanna. I have often wondered if Salvadors could do the same. I think the biggest catch would be figuring out cool stuff to do within a couple hours’ drive of Kunming.

Nothing to do in Kunming, don't bother...


Beyond the Wall
Originally uploaded by Even Rogers Pay.

After living in Kunming for more than a year all told, I get fairly regular emails from friends, acquaintances, friends of acquaintances, and totally random people asking me about what to do here. Sometimes they’re coming through for a day, others want to spend a few weeks in the province, and a lot of people are hoping to move here. If they’ve been reading the lonely planet, they’re all excited to experience the “Spring City” firsthand. And then I have to break the sad news: all the cool things in Kunming are being bashed down.

First, it was the Muslim district. Right in the heart of town, it was home to some beautiful and historic mosques and some amazing restaurants. They started ripping it down about 2 years ago, and now it is a dirt-and-rubble wasteland filled with pissy security guards and cops.

Then, they started on some of the other old neighborhoods downtown…

And now they’ve moved on to the Bird and Flower Market, Kunming’s always touristy but never disappointing source of goldfish, parakeets, pu’er tea, burmese jade, knockoff Air Jordans, and food-on-a-stick. In early May, they put up some signs. In late May, they built a wall around the beautiful wooden structures along the central street of the market. The wall has been expanding and the buildings are starting to come down. I’ve been half-heartedly documenting this process, and one of these days I will stick it up here, on the net for all to see.

Now, my list of “attractions” worth seeing in Kunming is down to one temple. So honestly, guys, if you are looking to be wowed with 景点,don’t bother with Kunming. Go to Dali or Zhongdian or if you’re really adventurous, Gaoligongshan.

August 22, 2006

Snails gone wild in Guangxi

Every morning when I get to work, I glance through two online publications: the New York Times, and, for “interesting” China news, Shanghiist. Today, a story about snails caught my eye — apparently people in Beijing are eating these things and getting meningitis. Good to know, since I eat everything I find for sale on the street.

Anyway, the article made brief mention of a related snail outbreak in rice paddies in Guangxi, which is both closer to my neighborhood and in my field (molluscicides are pretty toxic, yo.) The first thing I discovered is these little guys have lots of names. In addition to Amazonian Snail, they are also called “Apple Snail,” and in Chinese, they are “daping snail” (大瓶螺) or “fushou snail” (ç¦?寿螺). And it turns out they have been causing problems for a while:

(from a 2002 article on invasive species in the People’s Daily, see it here)

The species of snail Liu mentioned, Amazonian snail which is dubbed “Fushou snail” in China, was introduced to the southern county in the 1980s as a food delicacy. However, the snails bred very rapidly to infiltrate all lakes, brooks and ponds in the whole county - a disaster for local farmers as they tended to eat every seedling in the rice fields and seize bait from carp in fishponds.

From the perspective of my organization (see our awful website here), this next bit was even more interesting:

Making matters worse, the Amazonian snail is strongly resistant to highly toxic pesticides. Farmers have to pick them up by hand and take them far from water so they shrivel to death or directly bury them. But such labor-intensive methods have proved ineffectual against the powerful potency of the river snails. Having run out of options, the farmers are appealing to scientists to find or breed a natural enemy of the river snail.

Yeah, it is so awful that the snail is resistant to “highly toxic pesticides” — the farmers pick them off by hand instead of dumping tons of chemicals into the rice paddies. Boo hoo.

The article I found on Guangxi Agricultural Information Network (in Chinese, here) was far more informative, but, again, is in Chinese. Apparently they have found some chemical solutions since 2002. Some bits translated here —

自家田里施了激螺迯忎,螺虽然死了,忯丿到两三天,忈从水沟和别人家的田里爬过濥。(After a family applies molluscicide, the snails will die, however, within two or three days, they come back from neighboring fields and irrigation channels.)
(…)有计划组织农民养鸭,在螺念孵化时,放鸭孿到田里〿沟里心掉幼螺;在禿寿螺釿忑区,农民覿在规定时间内,在田地〿水沟〿池塘内统一投放激螺迯,开展全鿢性迯激。 (There is a plan to organize farmers to raise ducks, and at the time when the snales reproduce, put the ducks in the fields and irrigation channels to eat snail eggs and young snails. In areas where outbreaks of Fushou snails are serious, farmers should establish a time during which fileds, channels, and reservoirs will all be treated with molluscicide to kill snails simultaneously).

Gotta wonder what is going to happen to those ducks after they wander around in the poisonous fields eating toxic dead snails.

Kunming - Ducks

August 20, 2006

New website in Kunming

My friend Chris, who runs a consultancy called Meridian Group HK, recently released a new version of the website GoKunming.com. I have high hopes for this site, because at this point there is absolutely no competition for blogs, information, or forums in Kunming. So far the content isn’t very rousing, but hey, nothing interesting really happens in Kunming anyway.

Feeling Sexually Frustrated?

After a discussion about the new blog, a close friend sent me a link to the following article in China Daily:

A survey by the Ministry of Health at the end of 2004 said 88 per cent of the country’s male migrants suffered from sexual depression. And a survey carried out by Beijing Star Daily last year covering 40 adult male migrants revealed 16 of the married men hadn’t had sex in six months. Nine single migrants had not had sex since arriving in the city several years ago. The survey correspondents said they thought about visiting prostitutes, but their earnings could not sustain their desire for a call girl. Most of them instead watched porn films and some resorted to touching women in public.

Read the rest of that article, focusing on rape committed by desperate migrants, here.

Impoverished domestic Chinese migrant workers have it pretty bad in a lot of ways, and sexual release is probably the least of their concerns when compared with finding adequate food and housing. Expats, however, while generally not worrying about where their next meal will come from, are often plagued by sexual frustration. Whether pining after a long-distance significant other or failing to break through cultural and language barriers, working abroad can get.. ahem… lonely.

Most of my single friends assure me that Kunming has one of the worst dating scenes of any major city in China. Even the guys with “yellow fever” are generally hard-pressed to find an attractive local girl. When long-term single status or that long-distance relationship becomes too much, some of my friends and I have discovered an ingenious solution: CHEAP PEDICURES.

pedicure

About Migrant Worker

The term “migrant worker” refers to a person who is to be engaged, is engaged or has been engaged in a remunerated activity in a State of which he or she is not a national. - UN Commission on Human Rights International Convention on the Protection of the Rights of All Migrant Workers and Members of Their Families

Overeducated, underqualified, and occasionally “undocumented,” Migrant Worker, part of the Princeton in Asia blog network, is an attempt to detail the harsh realities and incredible rewards of international labor migration from an atypical perspective.

Even grew up in Rapid City, SD, and is proud to be everyone’s token Caucasian-Mandarin-speaking-South Dakotan friend. Her two favorite things are food and water, which she can be found both researching and consuming on a daily basis.

Since moving to China in September 2005, she has worked as a Princeton-in-Asia Fellow with Pesticide Action Network China (aka Pesticide Eco-Alternatives Center) in Kunming, Yunnan and also worked with the US Department of Agriculture’s Trade Office in Beijing. She is currently juggling a number of personal projects and welcomes any and all interesting offers and/or indecent proposals.

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