« September 2006 | Main | November 2006 »

October 30, 2006

Maps, maps, maps

For those of you who read Chinese, here is an interesting and potentially very useful mapping website:

http://maps.51ditu.com/

Impressive because it lists specific bus stops/ locations within cities like Kunming and Lhasa that haven’t been well-mapped by google and other providers so far. The site has China-wide coverage to a decent degree of detail, printable, and search-able in Chinese. It was created by a company called Lingtu (灵图) — that website is in “English” and it explains what they’re going for with 51ditu here (again, in somewhat confusing English).

According to the company, this mapping site is a first of its kind in China. They’re also providing some better quality paid mapping programs and working to develop GPS maps for cars and phones. While I am not so impressed with the company’s English website, I’m really excited about the product. Because I am a dork. And I really like maps.

Beijing's bright points

As you may already be aware, this Migrant Worker spent last week in Beijing, in an effort to mix business with pleasure and prepare for a (short-term) relocation to the Big Stinky early next year. Between the pollution, traffic, increased cost of living, and dearth of people who think they are important (present company included, obviously), I have been dreading the move for the last few weeks. But in an effort to focus on the positive, this is my photographic documentation of one of the best parts of Beijing:

brunch

Yes, that is a biscuit you see on the right-hand side of my plate.

That being said, Beijing was much better than I expected it to be. I saw blue sky on two separate days, baked cookies in a real oven, and almost went to the BBC symphony orchestra concert (the cellist Wang Jian, who I am dying to see live, only played the 2nd night and I was indisposed at the time — by China Eastern Airlines). I’ll be taking Beijing by storm as early late December and as late as Jan 15th.

October 21, 2006

Logistics smojistics


The Elusive Taxi
Originally uploaded by Aristide.

All told, I have spent over 2 hours waiting for taxis today. Not taking taxis, not considering taking taxis, not sitting around with taxi drivers, not waiting for stuff to get done so I can go take a taxi… no. Actually standing around and waiting for a taxi to come and pick me up. I am currently sitting around on some freezing metal poles at Beijing Capital airport and waiting for a taxi. I am not in line anymore. That was not going well for me. Instead, I am sitting outside the arrivals gate and waiting for Yam Ki to taxi out from Beijing so I can hop into his car and we can turn around and go back to Beijing. That is how bad the taxi line is, my friends. The taxi line is hopeless. The taxi line is filled with probably around 500-1000 very angry, generally wealthy travelers. Here, near the departures gate, there are about 20 people, all of us overdressed in suits, all the rest of them men, probably 80% Caucasians. We have decided to defy the system. We are getting out of this airport tonight come hell or high water. We have called our friends, lovers, 5 star hotel staff, and basically anyone we have a phone number for in Beijing and asked them to please come out here and get us.

I’ve been waiting for about an hour at this point (including the first line, which I only recently defected from). But I said that I had waited for taxis for two hours today - what gives?

Well, my flight was scheduled out of Kunming at 8 PM. At 6 PM, running mysteriously and thankfully early, I began to look for a taxi. It happened to be both Friday night and raining, which means that taxis were scarce. Worse, Kunming’s taxi exchange time is 7 PM, which means that all the drivers are picking up their last passenger of the day by 6:30. That’s right, folks, I waited around, in the rain, without an umbrella, in downtown Kunming for a taxi for an hour. Finally I walked down this alley to a popular high end massage parlor that I know of. Much of the clientele arrives in taxis - but no one else is waiting for them there. So after hanging out and walking around for a solid hour in the rain, I got a taxi, told him that if he got me to the airport in 15 minutes I had an extra 10 RMB for him (he did, I did, and that increased the total fare by 50% — tipping a $1.25 goes a long way over here).

Magically, I made my flight, which was only marginally delayed (miracle of miracles) and got to Beijing. Where I have now been, for an hour, waiting for a taxi. Luckily there is one upside to this situation: there are lots and lots of attractive guys in suits (my favorite) waiting around out here with me.


October 20, 2006

Elong.com -- Seriously, don't bother.


If only I had a plane…
Originally uploaded by Sherlock77.

I like the convenience of booking airline tickets in my office, whenever I want, without announcing to the general area when my travel dates are (because sometimes I need a day of rest when I return). So I started using elong.com because… well… I saw it on TV.

The first thing I discovered is that although they have an English-language booking page, you may as well just forget it, because when you enter your address in pin yin (no character support here) a local Chinese staff calls you, doesn’t speak ANY English, and asks you where you need the tix delivered. This isn’t a problem for me, other than the fact of the whole point of ordering a ticket online is that you don’t have to talk to anyone. But for people who are ordering tix in English because they DON’T SPEAK CHINESE, I feel bad for them.

The second problem is that you have to take delivery on the tickets right then. If, for instance, you are travelling or working in a rural area, I’m truly sorry, because they won’t actually book the ticket until they are about to deliver it to you. Soooo if you want to book it now but can’t pick it up for a week, just give up. Alternatively, you can pay even more to put it on a credit card. But again, this must be done on the phone in Chinese, because you can’t do it on the web in any language. And they don’t offer this option freely, you’re gonna have to talk them into it.

The third problem is that sometimes (often) they don’t even have the tickets at the price you booked. This happened to me yesterday, as I was booking a ticket to Beijing on really short notice. Relieved to have it over with, I went about my business for the rest of the day. Then, 40 minutes before my ticket was to be delivered, they called me to announce that the cheap ticket I booked was, in fact, gone, and that I could pay a few hundred RMB more for a different ticket. Thanks guys. That was great. If I wanted a more expensive ticket or one at a different time, I would have booked that in the first place. Further, now that I’ve wasted half a day assuming I’d already booked tickets, it’s going to cost me even more to book with someone else. This is not an isolated incident, as a friend who booked VERY EXPENSIVE INTERNATIONAL ROUND TRIP TICKETS had this same thing happen… except that time, their price jumped by a couple hundred US DOLLARS.

Once, I ordered tix from elong at the same time as the same friend booked on ctrip. The tickets were to the same destination and were basically the same price. His were booked on the Chinese language booking site; the tix were delivered promptly and with no hassle. I, on the other hand, booked on the English page of elong, and had to play phone tag with a number of people, including the website and their local Kunming delivery people, in order to get them to show up in the right place. Some of the personnel were horrified that I was a foreigner and telling me I couldn’t understand their slow, over-enunciated Mandarin (thanks guys), others spoke incredibly quickly in Kunming local dialect. Woe unto the beginner who tries to book tickets with this company.

It may be kind of annoying, but honestly you are better off in the long run if you just get your tickets from a local travel company. You can book on the phone, they’re pretty patient and they deliver to your door. If your name is English, you usually need to text it to them, along with your passport number. I also don’t have anything bad to say about ctrip.com.


October 17, 2006

Organic Agriculture in China -- Article in Businessweek

My dad knows more about what’s going on in Yunnan province than I do, and he lives in Wisconsin. He forwarded me a link to this article in Businessweek this morning, which is ridiculous because I was interviewed for it, and quoted in it, but he still scooped me.

The article discusses entry of Chinese organic products into the US market from a fairly skeptical perspective. I can understand the sentiment, but I tend to have a more positive outlook — and I’d like to think, fairly well-reasoned. Of course, I went on at length about this in the email interview… to draw a line from the article,

Barbara Robinson, who oversees the USDA’s National Organic Program, says that her department has received no complaints about Chinese organic products entering the U.S. “I don’t know why everybody picks on China,” she says.

Indeed.

What do I really think about China’s organic agriculture? Glad you asked. My organization just held a seminar on this issue a few weeks ago, which solidified a lot of the perspective I gained in the last year over here, so the questions from Businessweek were very well-timed. Here is the verbatim of my original responses:

Q: How much pesticides (and fertilizer, if you have that) does China use each year? Is it going up, or down?

The data vary widely depending on who you believe. For example, data reported by the Chemical Industry Almanac in 2001 was 300,000 tons lower than that reported by the China Agricultural Development Report. China Customs’ data for pesticide production was 1.04 million tons in 2005. It is important to note that about 430,000 tons (nearing half of all production) was exported in 2005.

The trend, however, is very consistent no matter whose data you look at. There was a brief decrease in use between 1983-1985, as a result of new policies banning a big group of persistent organic pollutants and highly toxic chemicals (DDT, lindane, monocrophos) but since the late ’80s, there has been a continual increasing trend in pesticide production and domestic use.

Q: Does the country use chemicals that are banned in the U.S.?

There are a large number of agrochemicals that are heavily restricted in the US that are still sold without legal restriction in China. For example, in the US, only licensed pesticide applicators can purchase the herbicide Paraquat, while in China, it is widely available over the counter (and often used for suicides).

Another example is Methamidophos, a highly toxic organophosphate that is only available to licensed pesticide applicators under very special and restricted circumstances in the US, and may only be applied to certain crops. In China, it is technically banned for use on all fruit and vegetable crops, but still easily available to most farmers without oversight.

A third problem in China is that many chemicals which have technically been banned for more than two decades (DDT, for example) are still manufactured in China for export — a practice I consider ethically questionable — and since there is a supply manufactured in China, it is still available from many pesticide retailers in rural areas. The ban is enforced in high-population areas, urban areas, and places producing crops for export, but in some small villages, DDT is still sold and used. In casual conversations, just about any pesticide retailer will openly admit this, and with a rural population of 700 million, the ban is difficult to fully enforce.

Q: What effect are these chemicals having on farmers and food? Are there any statistics on deaths, etc?

Pesticide is the primary means of suicide in China, since guns are illegal/almost completely inaccessible here. Suicide rates are highest among women in rural areas.

Acute poisonings on a large scale happen on a semi-regular basis, but the Chinese government doesn’t often pinpoint pesticides, instead citing deaths or hospitalizations from the very non-specific “food poisoning.”

Pesticide residue data is collected on a semi-regular basis, but these results may only be published annually in a national-level academic report. Some of the best case reports of pesticide residue on Chinese produce are those found in the Hong Kong media, since there is some residue testing at the border, and regular reports of poisoning due to black-market produce coming across from Guangdong province.

There has been some concern over the import of organic food because of fears that the regulations aren’t strict enough. Do you think those concerns are valid?

Organic farming means something very different in China than it does in the US. In the US, “organic” brings to mind small-structure, possibly family owned and managed farms that go organic due to a set of personal, ethical or health reasons. In China, organic products destined for export are usually grown on large-scale farms where farmers are organized and managed by either local governments or private companies. Plots of land are too small for one “family farm” to bring products to export, and in these places, the decision to go organic rarely lies with the farmer. This means they may not be invested in the idea of organic products, and therefore more likely to bend the rules.

The problem isn’t with the regulations per se, as with possible corruption during enforcement/certification. What I have seen of SMALL SCALE organic farming in China has been very positive and in compliance with regulations — but companies and governments still have the capacity to get away with a lot.

That being said, I don’t really see much of a health risk posed by eating China’s organic foods. They may not be as pristine an “organic” as US products, but they are still likely to be far “greener” than non-organic produce from the US. These food products are randomly tested for pesticide residue before exporting anyway, as both the US and the EU demand it.

Q: How should American consumers view organic food from China?

Organic food from China is a greener choice than off-the-shelf produce from the US. Pound for pound, even non-organic Chinese farmers are using only a fraction of the insecticides and herbicides used by US farmers. On the other hand, if a consumer’s goal is low environmental impact, they might want to consider the effects of shipping organics across the Pacific.

My personal opinion is that anything that can help to make organic farming in China a profitable choice will do the world an immense service. Production and use of pesticides is very much on the rise here. Local governments are actively promoting pesticide use in rural areas, using funds targeted for “scientific development” to host “experts” from pesticide companies that basically show farmers how to use more pesticides. Many consumers still have no idea what “organic” means. Profitable, export-oriented organic food products that are popularized by American consumers will give consumers a choice, and show farmers an alternative to dumping more toxins on their (and our) food.


October 11, 2006

Immigrant pseudo-eels and bio-xenophobia

I have spent 60-70% of my time in the last year translating a book on pesticide use in China. In the course of this project, I’ve learned a lot of truly thrilling new vocabulary — y’know, like acetylcholine esterase and teratogenicity — but today I stumbled upon something truly worth sharing: the family Synbranchidae, 合鳃鱼科 (hesaiyu ke), also known as SWAMP EELS which is a misnomer as they aren’t actually eels at all. Why do I care? Because while trying to figure out how to translate this into English, I ran across this:

Swamp eels 合鳃鱼科

It caught my eye not only for its sensationalism, but for its fairly prominent use of the word “Asian” in describing the eel. “Deadly ASIAN swamp eels are slithering across America…”

My interest piqued, I did a quick search to see what else I could find out about Synbranchidae, and found this article from a Florida newspaper, the fourth result for “swamp eels” in google. The article is a few years old, and also fairly sensationalist, loaded with references to the foreign heritage of these eels:

They’re referred to as “immigrants” —

These slimy, beady-eyed immigrants are slithering toward the Everglades.

And immigrants are implicated in their release —

Nico says it is also possible that swamp eels were released on purpose by folks who like to eat eels. Considered a delicacy in parts of Asia, swamp eels occasionally are sold at markets in Miami.

They are referred to as “aliens” in every sense —

Biologist Leo Nico, a burly man in his 40s, is talking about the Asian swamp eel, South Florida’s newest — and some say most threatening — alien resident ever.
In its destructive potential, this monster is every bit as scary as the villain from that sci-fi flick Alien. That monster was make believe. The Asian swamp eel is several ugly feet of absolute fact.

They are ascribed to a number of countries —

Collins, who studies DNA, recently discovered that the Snake Creek eels originate from Vietnamese, Malaysian and Indonesian stock.
Some live in Asian tropical jungles. Others live in China highlands.

Honestly, I dislike the influence of invasive species as much as the next girl, but the creepy emphasis on Asian origin is what is going to stick in the minds of the general public after reading this piece. The eel is characterized in such a way that it won’t occur to them that flushing their beta fish would make them part of the problem. In sort, the only take-away message, for lack of a less personified term, is a xenophobic fear of foreign organisms.

Michael Moore’s Bowling for Columbine had a great bit on this same issue, focusing on media coverage of Africanized bees paralleling stereotypes of African Americans:

They’re originally from southern and eastern Africa. Dr. Warrick Care brought some to Brazil and tried to mate them with the European bee, the kind that we’re used to. But they got loose and moved to the southern United States… The main difference between a traditional honey bee and an Africanized bee is the bee’s aggressiveness.

Turns out bio-xenophobia is a real term, or at least, someone else beat me to it.

Just to be clear, I do not support introduction of invasive plant and animal species, and if something practical can be done to prevent/remove these species, I would generally support it. What I do object to is the ‘orientalization’ of things like eels in an attempt to convince the public that they are a problem.

October 9, 2006

Yuanyang rice terraces: a travel guide of sorts

Getting there: There are no railroads (and certainly no airports) heading to Yuanyang so your options basically consist of a bus or renting a little van and driver (honestly, it’s hard to think up an appropriate way to express 面包车). The bus departs from the bus station near the train station on Beijing rd, and as of this writing, there is a 7:30 PM and 8 PM as well as a few morning options.

Logistical note — I tend to get my tickets from the Camellia hotel travel office. They sell bus and train tickets, and the booking fee is super low (5 RMB). They speak standard Mandarin (can be a challenge in Kunming) and they do have a few staff that can speak at least basic English. I can’t call up the bus station and ask about schedule and ticket availability, but I can do that with Camellia. Obviously, you could buy your tickets at Kunming’s bus stations, but there are three, so if you’re not sure which one your bus of choice leaves from, it can be a pain. I have no reason to plug this place other than my satisfaction with their service. Give them a call, 0871-3166600.

On the Road: As of this writing, the bus first reaches the administrative seat of Yuanyang County which is in a township called Nansha 南沙. You can find nicer hotels here, and it may be simpler to arrange for guided tours of the terraces. If this is your final destination, however, I recommend taking the daytime busses. The night busses get here at about 4 AM.

I chose to stay on the bus until the bitter end, arriving at the old administrative seat of Yuanyang County, a village now known as Xinjie 新街. It takes about 9 hours to reach Yuanyang Xinjie, and they let you sleep in on the overnight bus once you arrive, since it’s the last stop on the Kunming-Yuanyang bus. While a bit more rustic than Nansha, it is also a lot more atmospheric. If you’re on the night bus and you want to go on to Xinjie, be cautious not to get off too early in Nansha. Yuanyang Xinjie is the last stop, and is VERY mountainous, when you perceive that you’re on a big mountain, you’ve arrived.

Room and Board: There are only a couple of hotels in this town, with the nicest doubles topping out around 200 RMB. (Dorm beds for 20 RMB in the Government Hotel, rooms are fine and clean but the shared bathrooms are stinky and the showers are completely awful). We didn’t see any hostel options although apparently there are some Hong Kong people running one somewhere. There is only one pseudo-coffee shop (think Nescafe) as of this writing. The local snack food/street food is amazing, but if you’re looking for a nice big dinner, you may be disappointed.

Once you’re there, you probably want to go back to bed for a few hours to recover from the bus. Never fear, rice terraces are best at sunset anyway, and given the UV in Yunnan province, you’re not missing out on many good photos at high noon (plus you’re avoiding skin cancer).

Finding the Terraces: This is honestly the most challenging part of a trip to Yuanyang - actually getting out to the terraces themselves.

The first problem is that there don’t seem to be any published maps of the area available in Xinjie in any language. On the web, there are only a few hand drawn ones in Chinese. There was a rough but printed/official map on a sign in our hotel’s main lobby. I took a picture, photo-shopped it into plain black lines, translated, and voila! A bilingual map was born.

Yuanyang terraces map 元阳梯田双语言地图

Feel free to grab it in full size from Flickr, but please comment or shoot me an email if you do, I’m just curious who is heading down. It’s not authoritative but it’s better than what you will find in Xinjie. (Do any guidebooks have maps of this place?? It’s not in the Lonely Planet.)

Second, you probably want to actually see the freaking fields. There are some right below town, but not much to look at. Our hotel had a big sign describing a tour bus that you can get on at 6:30 AM in Nansha and see a huge number of sites in a day. We didn’t do this for a number of reasons, including unwillingness to spend all day on a bus filled with Chinese tourists on an exacting schedule. On the other hand, if you really want to see ALL of these places and you only have one day, it may be a decent choice.

Alternatively, you can arrange to rent a van and driver or even a motorcycle cart for the day. Based on what I know about other areas of Yunnan, the van shouldn’t run more than 150 RMB/full day of everywhere you want to go in the area. Try to get them down to 100 RMB. The 3 wheeled car/cyclo type options will be cheaper, but also less comfortable and more limited in scope. It is also very easy to hike out and hitch around a bit. 5-10K rides back to town will run you about 10 RMB in the passing tourist vans, or more like 3-4 in passing motorcycle carts. Make friends with the local peasants and you may get a free ride (but it might not end where you expected).

Getting Away: Here is the bus map from Yuanyang Xinjie. (Click through to Flickr to expand it).

Yuanyang Xinjie Bus Map 元阳新街营运线路图

You can get very regular busses to Nansha (New Yuanyang - 45 min) and Jianshui (About 4 hrs, very pretty drive). A few busses head to Kunming direct each day. You can also bus on to Hekou (Vietnam Border) or Jinghong (Xishuangbanna) from here.

Further Info: This is as good as it gets in English, from Maciej Tomczak on PhotoTramp. Great info on why to go there (no tourists) and how to take good photos once you are there.

I found this website on Nansha and this one on Xinjie (Chinese) to be pretty helpful, although it doesn’t say much more than I just did. Useful for the few links to other nearby cities as well. If you are into local street food and can handle spicy stuff, or if you like Chinese and South East Asian desserts, GO TO JIANSHUI on your way down or back (4 hr bus from Yuanyang or Kunming). The food was great, and there are cool Confucian museums and traditional courtyard houses and gardens.

October 8, 2006

National day in the fields


Terraces 梯田
Originally uploaded by 3v3n.

I spent the week’s National Day holiday in Honghe prefecture, making a stop at the Hani minority rice terrace fields in Yuanyang. I’ve been trying to get down here for a while now, and am glad I did, as it was (almost) everything I’d hoped it would be. The village of Yuanyang - Xinjie is fairly well off the beaten tourist track, to the extent that there were very few tourists in town even during the “golden week” holiday. At any rate, I certainly recommend Yuanyang to anyone who wants to stay in crap hotels, eat questionable food, struggle to understand a local dialect, and see some unbelievably sweet rice fields.

The Hao Hao Report

Planet Carleton

Chinalyst...
Powered by
Movable Type 1.56