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November 19, 2006

Anything worth reading on China?

Over the course of the last year, I have become increasingly concerned with what I would consider to be painfully shallow and trite China coverage on the part of many major American news outlets as well as other English language publications.

After speaking with a few friends who are working or have worked for the China bureaus of some of the leading English-language newspapers and magazines, I was given one startling piece of advice: If you want to be a journalist covering China, go home. If you are hired to research or freelance in China, you are not in line for your own byline for the office. Some of the world’s best news outlets hire their China reporters predominantly out of the US offices. They’re sent over with plenty of journalism background, but little understanding of China, and rarely any language skills.

(More ranting after the jump)

This reinforced my own personal experiences over the last year with a some news outlets covering environmental issues in Southwest China. None of the journalists I came in contact with, including those conducting e-interviews from the US AND those based in Beijing and Shanghai, could speak anything beyond very rudimentary Mandarin. Those based in China were accompanied by between one and a barrage of bilingual assistants who help them with all Chinese-language research, finding contacts and making appointments, conducting many interviews and fully translating others. While it is not unreasonable to expect some amount of language assistance and translation, I can’t imagine anyone being truly and deeply familiar with China without speaking pretty decent Mandarin, or else living here for a half a lifetime. My point being that many leading reporters have done neither.

I watched one fairly well-known journalist roll into Kunming and conduct at least 5 or 6 interviews in a day with many local NGOs. Little or no interesting information came out of this fishing expedition due to an absolute lack of cultural subtlety, incredible time constraints, and an insurmountable language barrier. (The journalist’s champion translator won my utmost respect, but no one on this earth can translate stuff like persistent organic pollutants without any background). In the end, one of my coworkers was misquoted in a major US newspaper, but we were not notified of the publication and failed to discover the error until a few weeks had passed.

Since Americans already know very little about China, reporters and their editors and publications can get away with murder in terms of everything from blatant errors and misquotes to sweeping stereotypes to outright drivel. Take, for example, this piece in Slate, wherein a very intelligent and well-qualified woman named Deb Fallows is guilty of making some of the most basic, generalized, and uninteresting observations about life in Shanghai I have ever read, and getting them published in a respected magazine with wide readership. I first read about her diary here, in the blog Shanghaiist. Over 50 Shanghaiist readers commented, some suggesting that the bloggers were arrogant and elitist for expecting better, while the majority supported the author’s perspective that this kind of China coverage is insubstantial, unchallenging, and empty.

A second example of is this article in the New Yorker about mathematician ShingTung Yau. He subsequently sued for defamation over inaccuracies in the article (warning: PDF). While it makes for a fascinating read, she gets away with a lot, because the general public (even the readership of New Yorker) views the math academe as mysterious and impenetrable. This sentiment is only intensified by weaving China and Chineseness into the story — again, a mysterious and impenetrable subject that American readers are willing to accept sweeping generalizations about. In effect, she writes for an audience who knows little or nothing about her subject matter and thus, her standards of accuracy (and decency?) slip.

Over lunch today, I had a conversation with a friend who has been living in China and working in a number of highly professional capacities for a few years now. Peter Hessler’s book, Oracle Bones, came up, and she said she never bothers to read the expat in China books, because most of the time she’s done all the stuff they describe, and much of the time she has gone through even more extreme experiences. I think that reflected some of the feelings of everyone at the table: while books like River Town and Iron and Silk and Foreign Babes in Beijing are exotic and interesting to a US audience, but they describe cultural friction that has become completely mundane to those of us here in China.

So we’re in a bit of a bind. The Times runs through its ever-recycling repertoire of “water story,” “dissident story,” and “mismanaged banking system” story — have you noticed that these recur every 2 months or so? Lately they’ve been peppering in the “China gives aid to Sudan/ Iran/ Myanmar” story. In the meantime, people like Nick Kristof and Peter Hessler write much more informed but still incredibly mundane pictures of daily life in China. And of course the Chinese state media continues to churn out its special flavor of schlock.

Leaving the international audience aside for a moment, you can see that even those of us living and working in China are somewhat at a loss as to what to read to become more informed.

But why should anyone, especially those of us over here in China who already have some idea of what is going on, really care?

Friedman’s November 10th op-ed in the New York Times argues that China is the country “most likely to shape US politics in 2008” and precipitate “the coming civil war among the Democrats.”

China, in other words, is inevitably going to move back to the center of U.S. politics, because it crystallizes the economic challenges faced by U.S. workers in the 21st century. The big question for me is, how will President Bush and the Democratic Congress use China: as a scapegoat or a Sputnik?

Gimmicky alliteration aside, if Friedman is right that China policy is about to divide the democratic party, I just wish I had some sense that Americans, particularly politicians who have a prominent role to play, had any source of decent information on what is happening over here — politically, economically, culturally.

I also wouldn’t mind having something more to read. Recommendations, anyone?


November 17, 2006

Shaxi Village and Shibao Mountain


Mr. OuYang, Shaxi
Originally uploaded by Even Rogers Pay.

One of my favorite places I’ve ever travelled in Yunnan province is a village called Shaxi — pronounced shah-she, deposed leader of Iran, followed by the female counterpart to he. I was there during Fall 2004 with a student group on my first trip to Yunnan. We stayed with local families, and I lucked out, living with a grandmother and grandfather whose children were grown and hosting some of my classmates.

I have often encouraged friends to travel to Shaxi, but to be frank, it took me a while to find it on a map, and there aren’t very regular or convenient forms of transportation to get there. Looking for more information, I happened across a website on Shaxi that may help independent travellers make it there knowing there is somewhere to stay at the end of their trip.

What is so great about this place that I am talking about it even though I haven’t been for two years? Well, first off, today is my last day at work (as you can tell I finally have a bit of free time) and I’m going to try to get out there during my mid-December unemployed period.

Additionally:

Shibaoshan Temples: Having lived and traveled in China for a couple years now, I have seen my fair share of temples. Shibaoshan, however, stands out in my memory as a host of some of the coolest temples I’ve ever seen. The mountain is covered with Taoist and Buddhist temples, connected by a network of paths. If you make it all the way to the top, you can get to some near-deserted and windblown places of worship that are obviously not targeted towards tourists.

Jianchuan (Shiling) grottos: If you continue to follow Shibaoshan along the ridge range, you can visit the most historically significant (coolest) grottos in southern China. These suckers were built during the Nanzhao Kingdom period in Yunnan’s history (Tang Dynasty), or between 700 and 1000 AD. So basically they are old. They include historical figures and depict some of the first transmission of Buddhism into China, with strikingly South Asian looking carvings. There is also an incredibly old carving of female genitalia that local women still pour oil on to pray for pregnancy. Local rumor has it (although I can’t cite this, can anyone help?) that premier Zhou Enlai deployed the military to protect the grottos from the red guard during the cultural revolution. At any rate, the military did show up, and only minimal damage was done.

Southern Silk Road: Also referred to as the Tea-Horse caravan, this trade route linked Burma with Yunnan and crossed the Tibetan plateau to reach the Western Silk Road. One of the largest and most well-preserved markets on this route is in Shaxi village, currently being preserved by an international project. In 2004, the project was just beginning, by this point, I’m sure the preserved areas are very interesting and accessible to travellers.


Yunnan's 18 Oddities: Eggs Sold in Chains

A few days back, I noticed that a couple of Kunming blogs covered the 18 Oddities of Yunnan aka Yunnan shiba guai or 云南十八怪. I’ve been collecting real-life photos of these “guai” occurances for a while, but for some reason it never occurred to me to post them up here.

So here goes nothing!

Eggs are sold in grass-chains 鸡蛋用草串着买

egg chains bw

This was taken in Xinjie village market, Yuanyang township. Our bus got in at the crack of dawn, and as we climbed uphill through town (it’s built on a mountain), we saw dozens of grandmothers with heavy bags of produce heading in a certain direction. After following them to the market, we got to watch them set up. The area is fairly isolated and very little Mandarin is spoken, especially among the women. Yi and Hani people make up the bulk of the population, and it was clear that many were bargaining with sign language.

Find an official list of the oddities here in Chinese and here in English

November 8, 2006

Rural China project work hits the web


Environmental Education
Originally uploaded by PEAC.

Pesticide Eco-Alternatives Center (PEAC), where I have been working for the last year, is an organization on the move. Since I started, we have gained 5 staff members, published a number of journal articles, won grant support from a few new donors, and entered what feels like a new phase in the organization’s development. There are two professors and a number of PhD and Masters candidates on staff, strong sense of quality and ethics during research, lots of experience in the field and running trainings, and a very transparent and well managed office. In fact, in my opinion from the last year here, PEAC’s biggest challenge has been its ability to sell itself to the public.

Successful American NGOs are defined by their ability to work the press. In China, keeping your head down is sometimes a more effective strategy. But on the whole, positive international attention is very beneficial to any organization, because it translates into research partners, donors, awards, and the like. This is why I am proud to announce that PEAC recently hired someone to develop a new website (coming soon… very soon… any day now).

In the process of writing the quarterly newsletter, I stumbled upon the photo archives and am working on uploading them to flickr for the newly minted Pesticide Eco-Alternatives Center Photo Archive. Keep watching this space for updates — I’ll fill it in for the next month, and then turn it over to PEAC to maintain. With only a few exceptions, these are NOT MY PHOTOS. In fact, it is an extensive collection of pictures from multiple staff members on a number of cameras spanning more than four years. There are some amazing shots of rural China up and coming soon — the kind of pictures that you can’t take unless you are involved in communities that rarely see anyone from the outside.


November 6, 2006

Cyclown Circus in Kunming?


Cyclowning
Originally uploaded by Even Rogers Pay.

My Kunming newsfeed just turned up this article from The Standard HK on the Cyclown Circus in Beijing — interesting in a number of ways. First off, it was written by Rachel Wasser, who I don’t know personally (yet) but I immediately recognized as a fellow PiA… er… fellow in Beijing. Secondly, it seems to indicate that this group is planning to come to Kunming.

The cyclowns have a general plan for the near future. Soon they will leave Beijing and continue to cycle south, likely stopping in Chengdu and Kunming, and slowly meandering towards Southeast Asia. They have an offer of a place to winter in Thailand, which they may or may not take up. As usual, details of their plans are vague.

I have to admit that I had never heard of the Cyclowns until I saw this article… but honestly, anyone or anything coming to Kunming is a cause for celebration, and/or research, which I promptly engaged in.

The Cyclown Circus folks are taking the concept of “migrant worker” to a whole new level. They’ve been travelling around the world for more than 6 years, performing and clowning and riding on ridiculous looking bicycles. This is exactly the kind of thing that will go over HUGE in Kunming so allow me to encourage them to get down here ASAP.

A whole lot more info can be found on their website.


November 2, 2006

The Yunnan Buzz

Since I started blogging about 4 months ago, there has been a steady upswing in news coverage about Kunming and Yunnan. Now it’s getting to the point that I can’t keep up with the flow of interesting environmental and development news. Today was particularly bad:

Lots of famous directors make movies in Yunnan because it’s beautiful here. Unfortunately, their filming is high environmental impact and they usually don’t bother to clear away their mess when they go. But according to this article, Chen Kaige is apparently going to get a “Green China” award as a result of the environmental mess he left behind at Bigu lake in Northwest Yunnan. WHAT??? “Sometimes a negative example can serve as a warning,” Xinhua quoted Wang Panpu, deputy director of the awards committee, as saying.

Yunnan tea is hitting the big time: according to some gross marketing news that google was kind enough to send my way, Peet’s Coffee&Tea company considers Yunnan tea one of “the finest black teas from the 2006 crop” on a list that also includes the much more well known Darjeeling. Some searching around revealed that Twinings specialty teas also sells “Yunnan Tea” Although certainly debatable, many believe that southwest Yunnan is the origin of the world’s tea trees.

A new-ish strain of bird flu, HN51 “Fujian-like,” has been found in Yunnan province according to this article and about a million others on the AP wire right now.

…one out of every 30 geese and one out of every 30 ducks in live markets tested positive for H5N1 in six southern Chinese provinces during yearlong surveillance […] The study was conducted in Fujian, Guangdong, Guangxi, Guizhou, Yunnan and Hunan, densely populated provinces where people live in close proximity to ducks, pigs and other farm animals, making the area a common breeding ground for flu viruses.

The article also notes that the Chinese Ministry of Agriculture has yet to give a sample of the new strain to the WHO, and speculates that the Chinese are trying to get ahead in the race for a vaccine. Great.

Lots of exciting info on the South East Asia transportation links via the recent China-ASEAN summit meetings on Monday and Tuesday:

Wen Jiabao promised to consider increased assistance to the Mekong River Bridge highway project connecting Kunming to Bangkok. Apparently Laos is running a bit over budget. Wen went on to mention China’s commitment to the Kunming-Singapore railway in his keynote speech.

Malaysia will be donating used railroad tracks to Cambodia to expedite that leg of the Kunming-Singapore railway. The article estimates the project’s total cost at 15 billion dollars, and finance seems to be the major obstacle at this point. As a matter of reference, costofwar.com places the total cost of the Iraq war at 339 billion dollars as of this writing.

Last but definitely not least, go read this fascinating article about where Kunming’s seafood comes from. Apparently my delicious squid teppanyaki is coming across the Myanmar border like contraband.

The Chinese and Myanmar government are buying off insurgents in some areas in order to open up the road (and apparently add a rail link) through Ruili. Further, China is helping Myanmar to build a bunch of hydro-power dams and oil pipelines — most likely to provide China with oil shipped in to Myanmar from other places.

Industry analysts speculate that those Myanmar-situated pipelines will be designed to transport oil and gas arriving by tanker from the Middle East and Africa to inland China, potentially saving Beijing time and money now spent sailing through the choked, pirate-infested and vulnerable Malacca Strait to China’s east-coast ports.

Pirates??? What??? Needless to say, this is by far the most interesting article I’ve seen in a long time. Maybe I’ll make a trip back to Ruili to check out the seafood trade with my downtime in December.

November 1, 2006

In which I relate South Dakota to China


Chuck E. Cheese
Originally uploaded by ~db~.

Why are South Dakota lawmakers willing to take a forceful and risky position on abortion, but refuse to take bold steps by pursuing strong trade relations with China?

This is a tale of two places: South Dakota, where I was born and raised in the American West, and China, my current place of residence and ipso facto home. It is also a tale of two policies: one, supporting economic development, and the other, opposing abortion rights. This story doesn’t have a happy ending, so if that bothers you, go ahead and stop reading now.

Today I read this article in the New York Times, which reports on the ballot initiative about to be put to vote in South Dakota:

The South Dakota ban was passed by the Legislature in February but was pushed to a statewide vote by opponents. If the law survives, it would become a felony for a doctor in South Dakota to perform abortions except to prevent the death of the pregnant woman.

This bill received national media attention last January and February as it was considered and passed. And now, as a ballot issue, its divisive force is again being felt as national lobbying groups attempt to turn the tide one way or another with millions of dollars of out-of-state money.

I, too, was watching the SD state legislature closely during last Jan and Feb, but for another reason: A week or two before this sweeping ban on abortions hit the media, House Bill No. 1055 was introduced —”An Act to appropriate money for trade representation in China, and to declare an emergency.” I was excited to hear about this policy through the (very long) grapevine, a move to fund a modest office for trade representation on behalf of SD businesses seeking to enter the China market.

And then, the abortion bill dropped a bomb on the state and whatever small media attention had been paid to the China bill evaporated in a moment. The policy was extreme in the extreme: it carried no exceptions for rape or incest, a doctor could only legally perform an abortion if the life of the mother was at immediate risk.

The whole country watched as Rep. Bill Napoli went on PBS NewsHour with Jim Lehrer and explained the way this played out in practice:

A real-life description to me would be a rape victim, brutally raped, savaged. The girl was a virgin. She was religious. She planned on saving her virginity until she was married. She was brutalized and raped, sodomized as bad as you can possibly make it, and is impregnated. I mean, that girl could be so messed up, physically and psychologically, that carrying that child could very well threaten her life.

With headlines like these in the state media, it is not a surprise that no one paid much attention when the SD state senate quietly stripped the word “China” from HB 1055. The bill’s sense of purpose was completely sacrificed. In its place, our legislature gave us a policy that advocates spending a very modest sum to, apparently, shower the world with SD trade cooperation offices. According to a number of state news sources, senators were too afraid of offending other foreign trade partners by prioritizing a strong trade relationship with China.

At the time (link is dead and gone now), the Sioux Falls Argus Leader quoted David Owen, president of the South Dakota Chamber of Commerce, with the following perspective:

“China is to this discussion is what Chuck E. Cheese’s is to my 5-year-old,” he said. “I can talk about other places to go to dinner all I want, but I know we’re going to Chuck E. Cheese’s.”

Nearly a year later, the abortion policy forcefully pursued by the SD state legislature is STILL a lightning rod for negative national and international media attention. It is still widely opposed, including among many opponents of abortion. And the time and money spent on this issue by the SD government (and therefore the taxpayers) is mounting each day.

According to statistics from the national Bureau of Economic Analysis, South Dakota’s state economy ranks 47th in the nation. I am shocked and horrified that the SD legislature will get behind this ridiculous abortion bill and fight, but was and is too afraid to commit itself to a strong trade relationship with China, a country with over a billion consumers where demand for high quality beef, high quality scoreboards, and many other South Dakota products has literally skyrocketed, and will continue to do so for the foreseeable future.

Most South Dakotan businesspeople have no idea how to tap into this huge market, nor do they have the luxury, as I did, of moving here to learn. HB1055 may have actually done something positive for someone in SD, I can guarantee you that this abortion crap won’t do anything positive for anyone.

Because of the general irrelevance of this blog to SD issues, my guess is that the readership back home is not large. That being said, however, I hope that all Americans who are heading to vote next Tuesday take the time to look at what issues their leaders are willing to fight on, and what issues they let slip. This is how the quality of a political representative should be measured.


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