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March 25, 2008

In Bangladesh...

I’m currently travelling in Bangladesh, and the steep learning curve of a new place reminds me of my original motivations for starting this blog. I had hoped to clearly articulate my experiences living, working, and travelling outside of my home country, and because of the public forum, push myself to meet higher standards not only in my writing but in the level of background research and information gathering I expected of myself before drawing any kind of conclusions.

Unlike China, where I now have a basic framework for understanding what I see around me and what I hear in the news, Bangladesh has been constant information overload. I can’t understand a word of local language or dialect (except, of course, when they talk about food… channa masala, aloo matar, kebab, naan, and so on). The entire political, economic, and technical/infrastructural context is different.

After the jump, excerpts from an email I sent to friends about the trip.

Continue reading "In Bangladesh..." »

January 11, 2007

Migrant Workers, Theft, and Spring Festival


Year of the Piglet?
Originally uploaded by PEAC.

Spring Festival, the most important holiday of the year in China, is approaching fast. That means those of you teaching English at a Chinese university probably haven’t been working since Christmas-ish and may very well have vacation until the end of February.

The rest of us ‘migrant workers’ have to wait until China’s central government officially announces the holiday vacation dates, at which point we charge to the nearest train or bus station to get in line for tickets home. People regularly spend full days waiting to buy tickets, and often are forced to camp out in the hopes of getting a reasonable seat home. A fairly accurate depiction of this phenomenon is presented here, in the hilarious (Chinese) satire film entitled “Spring Festival Travel Evil Empire.”

I was considering bypassing the charge this year and booking a flight somewhere until I noticed an article in Shanghai Daily about a price freeze on Spring Fest train tickets.

Saaa-weeet! This means they won’t jack up the prices an extra 20% just in time for everyone to be socially, culturally, and morally obligated to go home for their single yearly visit. As one of my coworkers put it last year, “It’s not like if you charge me more I will tell my grandma, ‘Grandma? Sorry I am not coming home for Chunjie this year.’”

The article mentions the fact that China’s 150 million migrant workers make up a large part of those travelling home for the holiday. Since these workers make very little, and are often owed thousands of RMB in unpaid back wages (see previous post), many get increasingly desparate when it comes time to get in line and buy those train tickets. Which leads to:

A huge outbreak of theft every year in the month or two leading up to Spring Festival. Shanghaiist Zat Liu reported on her personal experience with this phenomenon, a missing pair of “masculine” riding boots, as well as some information on where in Shanghai theft is most rampant.

I can identify, as I have had a cell phone cut out of my purse on a public bus and mysteriously “lost” a wallet in a crowded bar in the last two months. Needless to say, I’m getting a bit paranoid.

I was able to find a collaberative map of thefts in Beijing, but it is in Chinese and there are only a few additions. This article (Chinese) also details cooperative online maps of high-theft areas, and highlights the Sanlitun, Xizhimen, and Gucheng areas, as well as major hospitals (where people often carry large amounts of cash to cover medical bills).


December 6, 2006

Ctrip.com: rave reviews

I didn’t have many good things to say about Elong.com when I blogged about them back in late October. Since then, I’ve made a few bookings through Ctrip and I have nothing but good news:

Although the English is a bit fun and creative at times, it is perfectly possible to book through the English language website but input your delivery address in Chinese. This means I am less concerned about first time booking mistakes, but still can receive my tickets without trying to explain my address in Kunminghua over the phone.

It is possible to select (right on their website) an option that allows you to hold your tix with a credit card. This guarantees that you can make the booking even though you can’t or won’t take delivery for a day or two. You may also be able to pay on a credit card… but I can’t remember.

So far, they have had every ticket I booked on their website at the price I booked it… and I haven’t heard from any friends that ticket prices changed. This was one of my biggest frustrations with Elong as it further delayed my purchase of alternative tickets.

Local travel companies are good too, and I have yet to have any problem with them. But I can’t usually save my name and identification numbers at their offices… and Ctrip does that for me. Oh yeah, and also? Ctrip sends me a text message the day before my departure with weather in the city I’m flying to. Beat that.

I continue to have utterly no affiliations in this sector, I just like a cheap and efficiently delivered plane ticket.

November 17, 2006

Shaxi Village and Shibao Mountain


Mr. OuYang, Shaxi
Originally uploaded by Even Rogers Pay.

One of my favorite places I’ve ever travelled in Yunnan province is a village called Shaxi — pronounced shah-she, deposed leader of Iran, followed by the female counterpart to he. I was there during Fall 2004 with a student group on my first trip to Yunnan. We stayed with local families, and I lucked out, living with a grandmother and grandfather whose children were grown and hosting some of my classmates.

I have often encouraged friends to travel to Shaxi, but to be frank, it took me a while to find it on a map, and there aren’t very regular or convenient forms of transportation to get there. Looking for more information, I happened across a website on Shaxi that may help independent travellers make it there knowing there is somewhere to stay at the end of their trip.

What is so great about this place that I am talking about it even though I haven’t been for two years? Well, first off, today is my last day at work (as you can tell I finally have a bit of free time) and I’m going to try to get out there during my mid-December unemployed period.

Additionally:

Shibaoshan Temples: Having lived and traveled in China for a couple years now, I have seen my fair share of temples. Shibaoshan, however, stands out in my memory as a host of some of the coolest temples I’ve ever seen. The mountain is covered with Taoist and Buddhist temples, connected by a network of paths. If you make it all the way to the top, you can get to some near-deserted and windblown places of worship that are obviously not targeted towards tourists.

Jianchuan (Shiling) grottos: If you continue to follow Shibaoshan along the ridge range, you can visit the most historically significant (coolest) grottos in southern China. These suckers were built during the Nanzhao Kingdom period in Yunnan’s history (Tang Dynasty), or between 700 and 1000 AD. So basically they are old. They include historical figures and depict some of the first transmission of Buddhism into China, with strikingly South Asian looking carvings. There is also an incredibly old carving of female genitalia that local women still pour oil on to pray for pregnancy. Local rumor has it (although I can’t cite this, can anyone help?) that premier Zhou Enlai deployed the military to protect the grottos from the red guard during the cultural revolution. At any rate, the military did show up, and only minimal damage was done.

Southern Silk Road: Also referred to as the Tea-Horse caravan, this trade route linked Burma with Yunnan and crossed the Tibetan plateau to reach the Western Silk Road. One of the largest and most well-preserved markets on this route is in Shaxi village, currently being preserved by an international project. In 2004, the project was just beginning, by this point, I’m sure the preserved areas are very interesting and accessible to travellers.


October 30, 2006

Maps, maps, maps

For those of you who read Chinese, here is an interesting and potentially very useful mapping website:

http://maps.51ditu.com/

Impressive because it lists specific bus stops/ locations within cities like Kunming and Lhasa that haven’t been well-mapped by google and other providers so far. The site has China-wide coverage to a decent degree of detail, printable, and search-able in Chinese. It was created by a company called Lingtu (灵图) — that website is in “English” and it explains what they’re going for with 51ditu here (again, in somewhat confusing English).

According to the company, this mapping site is a first of its kind in China. They’re also providing some better quality paid mapping programs and working to develop GPS maps for cars and phones. While I am not so impressed with the company’s English website, I’m really excited about the product. Because I am a dork. And I really like maps.

October 21, 2006

Logistics smojistics


The Elusive Taxi
Originally uploaded by Aristide.

All told, I have spent over 2 hours waiting for taxis today. Not taking taxis, not considering taking taxis, not sitting around with taxi drivers, not waiting for stuff to get done so I can go take a taxi… no. Actually standing around and waiting for a taxi to come and pick me up. I am currently sitting around on some freezing metal poles at Beijing Capital airport and waiting for a taxi. I am not in line anymore. That was not going well for me. Instead, I am sitting outside the arrivals gate and waiting for Yam Ki to taxi out from Beijing so I can hop into his car and we can turn around and go back to Beijing. That is how bad the taxi line is, my friends. The taxi line is hopeless. The taxi line is filled with probably around 500-1000 very angry, generally wealthy travelers. Here, near the departures gate, there are about 20 people, all of us overdressed in suits, all the rest of them men, probably 80% Caucasians. We have decided to defy the system. We are getting out of this airport tonight come hell or high water. We have called our friends, lovers, 5 star hotel staff, and basically anyone we have a phone number for in Beijing and asked them to please come out here and get us.

I’ve been waiting for about an hour at this point (including the first line, which I only recently defected from). But I said that I had waited for taxis for two hours today - what gives?

Well, my flight was scheduled out of Kunming at 8 PM. At 6 PM, running mysteriously and thankfully early, I began to look for a taxi. It happened to be both Friday night and raining, which means that taxis were scarce. Worse, Kunming’s taxi exchange time is 7 PM, which means that all the drivers are picking up their last passenger of the day by 6:30. That’s right, folks, I waited around, in the rain, without an umbrella, in downtown Kunming for a taxi for an hour. Finally I walked down this alley to a popular high end massage parlor that I know of. Much of the clientele arrives in taxis - but no one else is waiting for them there. So after hanging out and walking around for a solid hour in the rain, I got a taxi, told him that if he got me to the airport in 15 minutes I had an extra 10 RMB for him (he did, I did, and that increased the total fare by 50% — tipping a $1.25 goes a long way over here).

Magically, I made my flight, which was only marginally delayed (miracle of miracles) and got to Beijing. Where I have now been, for an hour, waiting for a taxi. Luckily there is one upside to this situation: there are lots and lots of attractive guys in suits (my favorite) waiting around out here with me.


October 20, 2006

Elong.com -- Seriously, don't bother.


If only I had a plane…
Originally uploaded by Sherlock77.

I like the convenience of booking airline tickets in my office, whenever I want, without announcing to the general area when my travel dates are (because sometimes I need a day of rest when I return). So I started using elong.com because… well… I saw it on TV.

The first thing I discovered is that although they have an English-language booking page, you may as well just forget it, because when you enter your address in pin yin (no character support here) a local Chinese staff calls you, doesn’t speak ANY English, and asks you where you need the tix delivered. This isn’t a problem for me, other than the fact of the whole point of ordering a ticket online is that you don’t have to talk to anyone. But for people who are ordering tix in English because they DON’T SPEAK CHINESE, I feel bad for them.

The second problem is that you have to take delivery on the tickets right then. If, for instance, you are travelling or working in a rural area, I’m truly sorry, because they won’t actually book the ticket until they are about to deliver it to you. Soooo if you want to book it now but can’t pick it up for a week, just give up. Alternatively, you can pay even more to put it on a credit card. But again, this must be done on the phone in Chinese, because you can’t do it on the web in any language. And they don’t offer this option freely, you’re gonna have to talk them into it.

The third problem is that sometimes (often) they don’t even have the tickets at the price you booked. This happened to me yesterday, as I was booking a ticket to Beijing on really short notice. Relieved to have it over with, I went about my business for the rest of the day. Then, 40 minutes before my ticket was to be delivered, they called me to announce that the cheap ticket I booked was, in fact, gone, and that I could pay a few hundred RMB more for a different ticket. Thanks guys. That was great. If I wanted a more expensive ticket or one at a different time, I would have booked that in the first place. Further, now that I’ve wasted half a day assuming I’d already booked tickets, it’s going to cost me even more to book with someone else. This is not an isolated incident, as a friend who booked VERY EXPENSIVE INTERNATIONAL ROUND TRIP TICKETS had this same thing happen… except that time, their price jumped by a couple hundred US DOLLARS.

Once, I ordered tix from elong at the same time as the same friend booked on ctrip. The tickets were to the same destination and were basically the same price. His were booked on the Chinese language booking site; the tix were delivered promptly and with no hassle. I, on the other hand, booked on the English page of elong, and had to play phone tag with a number of people, including the website and their local Kunming delivery people, in order to get them to show up in the right place. Some of the personnel were horrified that I was a foreigner and telling me I couldn’t understand their slow, over-enunciated Mandarin (thanks guys), others spoke incredibly quickly in Kunming local dialect. Woe unto the beginner who tries to book tickets with this company.

It may be kind of annoying, but honestly you are better off in the long run if you just get your tickets from a local travel company. You can book on the phone, they’re pretty patient and they deliver to your door. If your name is English, you usually need to text it to them, along with your passport number. I also don’t have anything bad to say about ctrip.com.


October 8, 2006

National day in the fields


Terraces 梯田
Originally uploaded by 3v3n.

I spent the week’s National Day holiday in Honghe prefecture, making a stop at the Hani minority rice terrace fields in Yuanyang. I’ve been trying to get down here for a while now, and am glad I did, as it was (almost) everything I’d hoped it would be. The village of Yuanyang - Xinjie is fairly well off the beaten tourist track, to the extent that there were very few tourists in town even during the “golden week” holiday. At any rate, I certainly recommend Yuanyang to anyone who wants to stay in crap hotels, eat questionable food, struggle to understand a local dialect, and see some unbelievably sweet rice fields.

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