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   <title>PiA: Thomas Talhelm</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/" />
   <link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/atom.xml" />
   <id>tag:blogs.princeton.edu,2013:/pia/personal/ttalhelm//501</id>
   <updated>2011-12-06T00:18:04Z</updated>
   <subtitle>MY SO-CALLED BEIJING LIFE:我所谓的北京生活

psychology.language.culture.(mis)communication
</subtitle>
   <generator uri="http://www.sixapart.com/movabletype/">Movable Type Enterprise 1.56</generator>

<entry>
   <title>Unhappy China</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2010/09/unhappy_china.html" />
   <id>tag:blogs.princeton.edu,2010:/pia/personal/ttalhelm//501.9570</id>
   
   <published>2010-09-11T01:45:06Z</published>
   <updated>2011-12-06T00:18:04Z</updated>
   
   <summary>NPR ran a story today questioning whether China&amp;#8217;s happy. It also mentioned one Jiangsu town that&amp;#8217;s experimenting with a Bhutan-style government-mandated happiness program. The results aren&amp;#8217;t convincing so far: But the article equivocates on how happy China really is: Survey...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Thomas Talhelm</name>
      
   </author>
         <category term="Changing China" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/">
      <![CDATA[NPR ran a <a href="http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=129186046">story</a> today questioning whether China's happy. It also mentioned one Jiangsu town that's experimenting with a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gross_national_happiness">Bhutan-style</a> government-mandated happiness program. The results aren't convincing so far:
<br><br>
<img alt="happy0.jpg" src="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/happy0.jpg" width="450" height="252" />
<br><br>
But the article equivocates on how happy China really is: 

<blockquote>Survey results on happiness in China seem to be entirely contradictory. The most recent Pew Global Attitudes survey found that 87 percent of Chinese people surveyed were <strong>satisfied with the way things were going in their country</strong>, making it the most satisfied country by far out of all they surveyed.
<br><br>
But a European Union survey ranked China 128th out of 150 countries in terms of happiness. And one recent survey of 50,000 college students showed a surprising level of gloom.</blockquote>

But the surveys aren't contradictory at all. China is extremely satisfied with its economic progress and growing power, but these are opinions about the state of the nation. 

Surveys of individual happiness&mdash;how happy are you?&mdash;are much more dismal. In terms of happiness, China ranks near Nigeria and Indonesia&mdash;and below Iran.
<br><br><center>
<img alt="Unhappy%20China3.jpg" src="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/Unhappy%20China3.jpg" width="400" height="296" /><br>(Based on the 2007 World Gallup Poll on life satisfaction.)
<br><br></center>

The NPR story is a lot like the best-selling book <em>Unhappy China</em> (<a href="http://baike.baidu.com/view/2282750.htm?fr=ala0_1_1">中国不高兴</a>), which confuses happiness in the title with success in international politics. According to this <em>Time</em> <a href="http://www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,1886749,00.html">article</a> about the book, the book is mostly a freedom-fry-style (or <a href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2009/06/one_reason_why_16_billion_peop.html">freedom-cucumber</a>-style?) nationalist rant against the French for meeting with the Dalai, protests at the Olympic torch relay, and calls for China to reign in its pollution. (<a href="http://www.theonion.com/video/china-celebrates-its-status-as-worlds-number-one-a,14220/">Still number one in the "smoke of progress</a>!")

Most of my Chinese friends tell me that China is facing a social <a href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2008/04/what_troubles_the_chinese_mind.html">crisis of happiness</a>, where people feel they can't trust each other, materialism is clouding out true happiness, and capitalism brings out an ever more dog-eat-dog unease. It's disappointing to see NPR confusing  happiness with satisfaction with the state of the nation.]]>
      
   </content>
</entry>
<entry>
   <title>BP: Before Polo?</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2010/04/bp_before_polo.html" />
   <id>tag:blogs.princeton.edu,2010:/pia/personal/ttalhelm//501.9389</id>
   
   <published>2010-04-08T05:04:28Z</published>
   <updated>2011-12-06T00:18:04Z</updated>
   
   <summary>I decided a few months back that Marco Polo was the ultimate source of all the mental suffering of all future China writers. But an editor working with me on that article disagreed: surely there must have been someone before...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Thomas Talhelm</name>
      
   </author>
         <category term="Being Foreign in China" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/">
      <![CDATA[I decided a few months back that <a href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2009/10/the_marco_polo_effect.html">Marco Polo was the ultimate source</a> of all the mental suffering of all future China writers. But an editor working with me on that article disagreed: surely there must have been someone before Polo, he said. 

After a furious bout of research, I still can't find a Western writer in China before Polo. But I did discover a couple of non-Western China writers before Polo. 

A few decades BP, a Mongol monk named <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rabban_Bar_Sauma">Rabban Sauma</a> (拉宾扫务玛) wrote about his pilgrimage that wound through the Middle East and even Western Europe&mdash;a sort of reverse Marco Polo. However, most of his writing is made up of bland religious platitudes:

<br>
<blockquote>
And Abhgha replied, "This purity (or sincerity) of thoughts and conscience is worthy of admiration. And God is with those who seek Him and do His will. This man and his companion have come from the East to go to JERUSALEM; this hath happened to them through the wish of God. We also will minister to the Divine Will and the entreaty of the Christians; he shall stand for them as their head and shall sit upon the Throne."
</blockquote>
<br>

But a full 4 centuries before the both of them, a Japanese monk named <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ennin">Ennin</a> (圆仁) traveled to China to study Buddhism. His travels took him to Shandong Province's holy Mount Taishan, where tourists still hike today. He then meandered over to the imperial capital in Chang'an (present-day Xi'an), leading future researchers to conclude he was being led by the state-run <a href="http://www.chinatravelservice.com/">CTS</a>. The government-run monopoly then sailed Ennin down the massive Grand Canal, the ancient water-works wonder-cum-tourist-attraction whose role is now fulfilled by the Three Gorges Dam.

Ennin's touring must have included ample waiting time (perhaps for the CTS agents), because he wrote over 100 books, including the diary of his travels to China.

However, Marco Polo's status as the first Western writer in China remains unchallenged. That also means he's still wearing the title of source of all China writers' future mental suffering past and present.  ]]>
      
   </content>
</entry>
<entry>
   <title>Ruined Life Now on Display in China Daily</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2010/03/ruined_life_now_on_display_in.html" />
   <id>tag:blogs.princeton.edu,2010:/pia/personal/ttalhelm//501.9381</id>
   
   <published>2010-03-25T19:09:19Z</published>
   <updated>2010-03-25T19:31:43Z</updated>
   
   <summary>The China Daily has just published a revised version of How Peter Hessler Ruined my China Life, along with Hessler&amp;#8217;s reply. Besides a few editorial changes, the artist also gave me crazy-looking pajama pants: In my defense, I own no...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Thomas Talhelm</name>
      
   </author>
   
   <category term="4796" label="China Daily" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
   <category term="4798" label="China life" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
   <category term="4794" label="Hessler" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag" />
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/">
      <![CDATA[The <em>China Daily</em> has just published a revised version of <a href="http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/life/2010-03/17/content_9603053.htm">How Peter Hessler Ruined my China Life</a>, along with <a href="http://www.chinadaily.net/life/2010-03/18/content_9608379.htm">Hessler's reply</a>. Besides a few editorial changes, the artist also gave me crazy-looking pajama pants:<br><br>

<img alt="Thomas%20hot%20pot.bmp" src="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/Thomas%20hot%20pot.bmp" width="222" height="250" />
<br><br>
In my defense, I own no such pajama bottoms. But if a crime against fashion is the only comeuppance I get from writing the article, I consider myself lucky. 

 Over a year later, the <a href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2009/03/how_peter_hessler_ruined_my_ch.html">original post</a> is somehow still coming up on the first page of the Google search results for "Peter Hessler." Sorry about that!]]>
      
   </content>
</entry>
<entry>
   <title>Get Into my Africa</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2009/10/get_into_my_africa.html" />
   <id>tag:blogs.princeton.edu,2009:/pia/personal/ttalhelm//501.9111</id>
   
   <published>2009-10-30T23:40:52Z</published>
   <updated>2011-12-06T00:18:04Z</updated>
   
   <summary><![CDATA[In my informal search with Peter Hessler into the Get out of my China Fantasy Effect&mdash;the possessiveness foreigners feel toward China and their shunning of other foreigners&mdash;we&#8217;ve surmised that several causes might be pushing foreigners to feel possessive about China:...]]></summary>
   <author>
      <name>Thomas Talhelm</name>
      
   </author>
         <category term="Being Foreign in China" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/">
      <![CDATA[In my informal search with Peter Hessler into the <a href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2009/09/get_out_of_my_china_fantasy.html">Get out of my China Fantasy Effect</a>&mdash;the possessiveness foreigners feel toward China and their shunning of other foreigners&mdash;we've surmised that several causes might be pushing foreigners to feel possessive about China: 

1. <strong>The learning curve</strong>: learning Chinese is difficult, and after we've completed the arduous process, we come to feel like we've earned it, and this place is ours. 

2. <strong>The hardship factor</strong>: living in China can be difficult. As with language, this gives us hardcore points for living without internet, clean air, etc., so we come attached to the place, perhaps like someone who struggles through working to pay for their own college education then thinking that others should do the same. 

3. <strong>The adventurer myth</strong>: foreigners in China have in the backs of their minds the romantic dream of being an adventurer in a strange land. Whether they're in a remote place like Fuling or a metropolis like Beijing, the addition of other foreigners dashes this dream, so we want them out. 

Yet throughout all of these explanations, I can't shake my suspicion that things happen differently for foreigners in Africa. To understand exactly what happens when Westerners go to live in Africa, I asked an old friend who is now in his second year volunteering with the Peace Corps in Cape Verde. He responded: 

<blockquote>
Hey Tom,<br><br>

I've thought about more or less the same question as well, throughout my time in CV [Cape Verde]. . . . I don't think many of us PCVs [Peace Corps Volunteers] feel hardcore here, with the main dangers of alcoholism and STDs. Even tourists feel that way, that it's Africa-lite. That would tend to lessen the possessiveness factor, I believe.<br><br>

It's almost like the least involved people think they're most hardcore. As PCVs we're deep in our communities and kind of live like locals, whereas other development people make much more money, live in the nice cities, and can't believe how terrible it is that there are power cuts every so often. We feel different as well because we live here, have lived with Cape Verdean families for two months. We resent it when Cape Verdeans tell us we're just tourists spending two years visiting.<br><br>

We at times resent tourists, businesspeople, or NGO workers who are here to play and mess around without respecting or helping Cape Verdeans. . . . <br><br>

So I guess in the end, I can't rule out a sense of possessiveness, but I don't see it much in CV. <br><br>

Best, or as we say in Kriolu, fika dretu,<br><br>

Andrew
</blockquote>

It looks like the answer is tricky. On one hand, visitors and residents in Africa certainly do seem to have the same criterion of hardcore-ness that visitors to China have. The harder, dirtier, and more dangerous the place is, the more hardcore points you have. Conversely, people who jet about the "easy" places with steak houses and fancy hotels become an object of sneering or resentment. 

On the other hand, the feelings of hardcore-ness seem to exist in Africa without a feeling of possession. Andrew may judge other foreigners for being tourists and decry his own "Africa-lite" experience, but a sense of possessiveness is not a part of the equation. 

That leaves a nagging question: if Africa doesn't inspire a possessiveness in visiting Westerners, then what is it about China or East Asia in general that does inspire this possessiveness? ]]>
      
   </content>
</entry>
<entry>
   <title>The Marco Polo Effect</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2009/10/the_marco_polo_effect.html" />
   <id>tag:blogs.princeton.edu,2009:/pia/personal/ttalhelm//501.9079</id>
   
   <published>2009-10-13T17:18:16Z</published>
   <updated>2011-12-06T00:18:04Z</updated>
   
   <summary>Some might say that my writing about how Peter Hessler ruined my China life was like a monkey slinging feces. In my experience (of writing the article, not flinging feces), I found that it was actually a lot more like...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Thomas Talhelm</name>
      
   </author>
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/">
      <![CDATA[Some might say that my writing about <a href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2009/03/how_peter_hessler_ruined_my_ch.html">how Peter Hessler ruined my China life</a> was like a monkey slinging feces. In my experience (of writing the article, not flinging feces),  I found that it was actually a lot more like another poop experience: scooping poop out of my cat's litter box. 

When I was young, one of my household chores was to scoop out my cat's litter box every week. Whenever I set out to the revolting task of putting scoop to poop, I wanted it to be over as soon as possible. Unfortunately for me, cats are fond of burying. So every time I thought I had finished, a little more scooping would reveal another fecal treasure deeper down in the box. The garbage pail trail always ended up leading much deeper than I thought upon first scoop. My discovery of the massive chain of the China psych-out worked exactly the same way.  

More than a year into China, I was psyching myself out because I was convinced that I was <a href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2009/03/how_peter_hessler_ruined_my_ch.html">living in the shadow of Peter Hessler</a>, who had already been here, done this, and published it in an award-winning book. Later, when Pete sent me a message, he revealed that he had been living in the shadow of Mark Salzman, whose book <em>Iron and Silk</em> was read across <em>laowai</em> China, leading some publishers to ask Pete to re-write his book in the style of Salzman's. Having wallowed in my jealousy and formed my opinions all while Hessler was God, I never imagined that he had been through what I was going through. 

But the story didn't end there. Further digging proved that writers have been psyching themselves out not just for years, but for over a century. Pete wrote about Archibald Little's 1887 book <em>Through the Yangtse Gorges</em>, in which the author apologizes for writing about Chinese banquets, which "have been described over and over again." 

Crunching the numbers, I realized that foreigners have been psyching themselves out about writing about China for at least 122 years. My psych-out experience was not simply my experience. It was only a reappearance of a cycle that has been repeating itself for a long time. 

I knew then that the next step was to point blame. Marco Polo&mdash;perhaps the first widely successful western China writer&mdash;may be the ultimate source of this phenomenon, so I've decided to call it the Marco Polo Effect. That would pin the origin of the China psych-out as early as circa 1350. 

After Marco Polo establishes his namesake effect, he does NOT have to psych out each individual writer after himself. Instead, he's just at the epicenter of a large chain reaction, like a stone falling into a pond, with each wave repeating itself through each successive China author.

<img alt="Marco%20Polo%20Effect.jpg" src="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/Marco%20Polo%20Effect.jpg" width="450" height="750" />

The problem with the diagram, of course, is that I am by no means a famous author. But considering how the Marco Polo Effect works, that doesn't matter. The Marco Polo Effect affects eventual famous authors (who then go on to pass along the effect), and it affects authors who never even put pen to paper. The flu works the same way: some people get it and pass it on, while others just get it. 

In the end, it was somehow inspiring to find that I was far from the only turd in the litter box. The Maro Polo Effect has been going on for far longer than I ever imagined, and I see no reason to say it won't continue on indefinitely. My litter box duty, on the other hand, is now a chore of the past. ]]>
      
   </content>
</entry>
<entry>
   <title>Get Out of My China Fantasy</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2009/09/get_out_of_my_china_fantasy.html" />
   <id>tag:blogs.princeton.edu,2009:/pia/personal/ttalhelm//501.9067</id>
   
   <published>2009-09-20T23:07:27Z</published>
   <updated>2010-03-25T17:30:54Z</updated>
   
   <summary>I was thrown onto the streets of Beijing in 2006 by chance. I knew little of China, and I had never visited such a strange land on my own. But I knew I&amp;#8217;d have support. It took only a short...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Thomas Talhelm</name>
      
   </author>
         <category term="Being Foreign in China" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/">
      <![CDATA[I was thrown onto the streets of Beijing in 2006 by chance. I knew little of China, and I had never visited such a strange land on my own. 

But I knew I'd have support. It took only a short walk on a Beijing street to find other foreigners. As newfound minorities in a strange land, I knew we'd share an instant bond, just like people living in sparse towns on the edge of civilization do in the US, where they say "hello" to anyone walking by on the sidewalk, acquaintance or not. 

But during my first venture onto Beijing's streets, I noticed that my fellow foreigners didn't simply refrain from camaraderie. They wouldn't even make eye contact with me. 

It took me weeks to puzzle it all out. These foreigners managed to cross the street without getting hit by cars (not an easy task in China), so blindness wasn't a good explanation. I eventually decided that they wanted to subscribe to the <a href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2009/03/how_peter_hessler_ruined_my_ch.html">cushy illusion</a> that China was all theirs, and trying not to recognize my presence could help maintain that comforting illusion. Or perhaps it was just that I hadn't discovered that Chinese department stores did actually stock deodorant.

When I came to have feelings just like those foreigners, I realized that on the inside, it felt more like animosity. Instead of "I don't want to see you" the feeling is more akin to "Get out of my China fantasy!" 

Peter Hessler reports feeling the same instant animosity toward foreign visitors to Fuling in <em>River Town</em>. Along with the illusion of being an intrepid explorer in a foreigner-free foreign land, foreigners also come to feel a sense of ownership over China and their China experience. The so-dirty-it-must-be-authentic noodle shop hidden on a back street becomes a badge. The hole-in-the-wall goes from being <em>a</em> restaurant to being <em>my</em> restaurant.

Yet the dirty-restaurant badge becomes as worthless as a cereal box detective badge when other foreigners begin eating there. I'm absolutely certain that I'm not the only foreigner to have a twang of disappointment when foreigners waltz into "my" hole-in-the-wall noodle stall. "They found it by accident. They're not <em>really</em> China adventurers," I convince myself. 

The result is a foreigner-free hierarchy of China cred. The high-scorers are those living in remote villages where the illusion of being a modern day Marco Polo actually approaches reality. 

Those of us living in metropolises like Beijing and Guangzhou can often be found apologizing for the fact that we've chosen these well-traveled routes. Even I would brag to my Beijing friends that I hadn't seen foreigners in Guangzhou in weeks. "They're really just confined to one downtown area. Not where <em>I</em> live."

Yet, if we can't claim to be the only foreigner in a remote outpost, we can at least mentally erase the other foreigners from our Chinese city. Darting our eyes away from other foreigners we encounter on the street is simply our eye muscles instantiating this desired illusion.

As my days in Beijing turned to weeks and months, I found my desire for camaraderie transforming into the same animosity toward foreigners that I had decried when I first arrived. At that moment, I became just like all the other foreigners that I was claiming weren't actually there. ]]>
      
   </content>
</entry>
<entry>
   <title>Hessler Issues Apology</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2009/09/hessler_issues_apology.html" />
   <id>tag:blogs.princeton.edu,2009:/pia/personal/ttalhelm//501.9066</id>
   
   <published>2009-09-18T22:52:10Z</published>
   <updated>2011-12-06T00:18:04Z</updated>
   
   <summary>Last weekend I was fortunate enough to find a message from Peter Hessler himself concerning how he ruined my China life. Hessler was gracious enough to see the humor in the article and to give sage advice to aspiring writers....</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Thomas Talhelm</name>
      
   </author>
         <category term="Being Foreign in China" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/">
      <![CDATA[Last weekend I was fortunate enough to find a message from Peter Hessler himself concerning <a href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2009/03/how_peter_hessler_ruined_my_ch.html">how he ruined my China life</a>. Hessler was gracious enough to see the humor in the article and to give sage advice to aspiring writers. 

Ironically, Hessler's China life seems to have been "ruined" by a popular China writer before him, Mark Salzman and his book <em>Iron and Silk</em>. Read Hessler's message&mdash;which I've reprinted below with permission&mdash;to find out how.

&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;-
<blockquote>
Not sure if this is the right address for Thomas Talhelm. If not, just
ignore this message.<br><br>

   My sister sent me a link to your article about how I ruined your life. 
Sorry about that ... I definitely appreciated and enjoyed the humor.
People aren't always so good-natured about it, that's for sure. <br><br>

   It's a funny phenomenon, and one that I remember when I first came to
China.  There were certain books that everybody read, and the longer you
lived there the more you might be inclined to resent them.  It's a natural
reaction in a place like China, where you're constantly learning and
discovering.  It's a very personal process, very intense, and a sense of
ownership develops.  In "River Town" I wrote about how I wasn't so
charitable when I saw a couple of Europeans in Fuling, the first (and only)
"uninvited" foreigners that I ever saw in town. I really did not want them
there. I realized it was an unfair reaction, very childish; but I also saw
that it was quite natural. After a long period of isolation I felt like it
was my city.<br><br>

   During the years that I was in Fuling, "Iron and Silk" was the book that
all foreign teachers read, and sometimes complained about.  When I sent out
the unsolicited manuscript of "River Town," a lot of reactions were clearly
shaped by Mark Salzman's book.  Most agents and publishers rejected it,
probably because there was already a successful book about teaching in
China. Or they wanted to build on it in narrow ways: one agent wanted me to
cut my manuscript down into very short vignettes, like Salzman's book.  I'm
glad I resisted; over the years it's become clear that these are very
different books and each has its own place. A couple of years ago, I met
Mark Salzman at a literary event, and I told him that the foreign teachers
now complain about me as well as him. He laughed; he knew what I was
talking about. When I was in Fuling, I really benefited from reading his
book, as well as Bill Holm's "Coming Home Crazy."  The fact that they were
so different struck me as a good thing. It reminded me that it's not simply
the experience that matters: it's the writer.  And I noticed that these
books shared something in common: a sense of humor.<br><br>

    I think that develops more naturally when you live in China as a low-level waiguoren, teaching or studying or doing whatever. You learn to laugh at yourself, and you tend to recognize that the Chinese also have a good sense of humor. I think this is much harder for a foreign journalist, because they arrive in China on different terms, and with different expectations.  They're supposed to cover big, important events, and they feel a lot of pressure from their editors, and often it's not easy to find a place for humor.<br><br>

     As time passes, it's more clear that China is such a big country that
lots of different things can be written about it. This has always been
true, but it wasn't so obvious back in 1999. When I sent out "River Town," a
couple of publishers responded that they liked it, but they couldn't offer a
contract because, in their words, "we don't think that anybody wants to read
a book about China." It's hard to imagine, but there wasn't this sense of
China as such an important, varied, and energetic place. Nowadays there are
many books coming out every year, and many of them are good in different
ways. It's much more promising for a young writer.<br><br>

   Of course, it's not strictly the experience that distinguishes a piece
of writing. China has been around for a long time, and experiences have
overlapped for years and decades and even centuries. Recently I was reading
Archibald Little's "Through the Yangtse Gorges," in which he describes a
Sichuanese banquet, and then he apologizes because it's hardly a new story:
"Chinese dinners have been described over and over again, but I have
narrated this one, as I think few have given an idea of their tediousness
and the absence of all that we deem comfort."  Little wrote this in 1887!
So I wasn't exactly breaking new ground with the <em>baijiu</em> banquets in "River Town."<br><br>

   I had to get beyond this, especially since my goal in that book was to write about everyday observations and experiences.  Lots of foreigners shared those things, and there was nothing special about my China background.  Fuling wasn't an important place.  Many foreigners spoke the language better than I did, and many people had a deeper knowledge of the culture.  But I thought of myself as a writer, not a China expert. My training was more along those lines; before going to China I had worked as an ethnographer in southeastern Missouri, and I had thought a lot about the
social sciences and theories of observation.  In college I took a lot of courses in fiction and nonfiction writing. I had very few ideas about China, but I had strong ideas about voice, structure, set pieces, story structures. People often don't realize how technical writing is.  It's a lot harder than learning Chinese or learning about China, that's for sure. By the time I left Fuling, I had spent only two years engaged seriously with
China, but thirteen years engaged seriously with writing.  If the ratio had been the opposite  thirteen years in China, and two years thinking about how to write  that book would not have happened.  I might have known a lot, but I wouldn't have known how to express it, and how to structure it. In any case, that book is more about a learning process; it's about how language, people, and culture came into focus for me.  It's not about "China" in the strictest sense.<br><br>

   As the years passed, I gained a better understanding of certain Chinese subjects, and my approach as a writer changed.  I wrote less about myself and more about the people or subjects I was researching.  The second and third books are quite different; they aren't so much about this learning process.  But that's part of why China is a such interesting place for a young writer  there's plenty of room to grow.  You're trying to figure this place out, learn the language, understand the people; and at the same time you're trying to learn how to write in English.  Two technical processes,
hopefully complementary and in balance.  One side is quite social and engaged with the environment; the other is much more solitary and individual.  I suppose that's what I enjoyed the most about writing from China, the balance of these combined challenges.  I hope it's going well for you, and that you stick with it.<br><br>

All the best <br><br>

Pete

</blockquote>]]>
      
   </content>
</entry>
<entry>
   <title>How My Blog Entry Ruined Peter Hessler&apos;s Google Life</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2009/09/how_my_blog_entry_ruined_peter.html" />
   <id>tag:blogs.princeton.edu,2009:/pia/personal/ttalhelm//501.9049</id>
   
   <published>2009-09-10T03:38:36Z</published>
   <updated>2010-03-25T17:30:54Z</updated>
   
   <summary>&amp;#8230;and other hyperboles. In a twist of cosmic injustice, my blog entry on How Peter Hessler Ruined My China Life now comes in 5th when you Google &amp;#8220;Peter Hessler.&amp;#8221; Strangely, this puts the Google rank of my rant above all...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Thomas Talhelm</name>
      
   </author>
         <category term="Being Foreign in China" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/">
      <![CDATA[...and other hyperboles. 

In a twist of cosmic injustice, my blog entry on <a href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2009/03/how_peter_hessler_ruined_my_ch.html">How Peter Hessler Ruined My China Life</a> now comes in 5th when you Google "Peter Hessler." 

Strangely, this puts the Google rank of my rant above all but one of his articles'. Now if I could only get up there on the Google ranking for "Chinese alphabet" like the poor academic in "Oracle Bones"... ]]>
      
   </content>
</entry>
<entry>
   <title>Update: Left the Building</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2009/09/update_left_the_building.html" />
   <id>tag:blogs.princeton.edu,2009:/pia/personal/ttalhelm//501.9048</id>
   
   <published>2009-09-10T03:31:49Z</published>
   <updated>2010-03-25T17:30:54Z</updated>
   
   <summary>Better late than never. My China run has (so to speak) run its course for now. I&amp;#8217;m now back in the States, at the University of Virginia, studying social and cross-cultural psychology. Hopefully, I&amp;#8217;ll be distilling my China experiences into...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Thomas Talhelm</name>
      
   </author>
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/">
      <![CDATA[Better late than never. My China run has (so to speak) run its course for now. I'm now back in the States, at the University of Virginia, studying social and cross-cultural psychology. Hopefully, I'll be distilling my China experiences into ground-breaking theories that I'll be sure to cash in on before my next trip back. 

In the meantime, I'll be slowly getting used to the idea of fortune cookies and whatever these so-called "Asian Restaurants" around here are up to. (Sushi and Chinese food under one roof!?) Plus, I will, from time to time, get some stories up that I never got around to while in China. Instead of a failed-studies-go-into-the-desk-for-later <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Publication_bias">file-drawer phenomenon</a>, some of these will be longer, more in-depth pieces that I never got around to.]]>
      
   </content>
</entry>
<entry>
   <title>Why Michael Jackson&apos;s Bigger in China</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2009/08/why_michael_jacksons_bigger_in.html" />
   <id>tag:blogs.princeton.edu,2009:/pia/personal/ttalhelm//501.9006</id>
   
   <published>2009-08-05T17:01:08Z</published>
   <updated>2011-12-06T00:18:04Z</updated>
   
   <summary>Besides the fact that it was my second to last night in China, today was an otherwise unexceptional Wednesday night in Guangzhou in the Baijia Supermarket on Tianhe Beilu where I was browsing with David. Yet as I walked down...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Thomas Talhelm</name>
      
   </author>
         <category term="Changing China" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/">
      <![CDATA[Besides the fact that it was my second to last night in China, today was an otherwise unexceptional Wednesday night in Guangzhou in the Baijia Supermarket on Tianhe Beilu where I was browsing with David. Yet as I walked down aisles of clothing and video games, I noticed a large video screen playing a footage of a Michael Jackson concert. I stopped in the aisle, losing myself in his outrageously gold outfit and over the top stage performance. As "Smooth Criminal" wound to a close and the dancers completed their logic-defying anti-gravity lean, I suddenly heard a subtle gasp from behind me. I turned around to see that I was now surrounded by a crowd of Chinese patrons that had gathered to watch the concert, blocking the aisle, if not with their bodies then with their idled shopping carts. The growing crowd spanned middle-aged parents and elementary school children. As I stood watching, I expected the crowd to disperse after the first song ended, but the crowd persisted through another song and then another. 

During his lifetime, Michael Jackson made a single, brief <a href="http://www.helpton.com/Article/1/20090630/4087.html">trip to China</a> (to visit the children: "我难以抗拒他们对我的吸引" ), and played a total of zero concerts here. But his music set hold in a nation at just the very moment when radio and television made foreign music available&mdash;and at a time when listening to such pop music was finally no longer considered a bourgeoise conceit liable to bring denouncement. 

His impact on China is large and surely larger than <a href="http://www.xcar.com.cn/bbs/viewthread.php?tid=10002093&page=1#pid213606716">inspiring a generation of security guards to wear black dress shoes with white socks</a>, as one blog suggests. His tabloid-tainted decline was largely overlooked, while his songs like "Heal the World" and his humanitarian work touched a generation. Jackson and his cassette tapes came at the time to remind a billion people that art and music could serve interests other than state propaganda&mdash;that music and dancing could be delectably indulgent and apolitical. 

Upon his death, newspaper stands here were covered overnight with special issues and magazines devoted to Jackson, while the bootleg DVD vendors on the street&mdash;who had always tended to have a Michael Jackson DVD or two on hand&mdash;upped their supply in number and range. Newspapers and blogs exploded with editorials explaining that Jackson represented a Chinese era.

I had first learned of <em>Maike Jiekexun's</em> death when I awoke to a text message a Chinese friend had sent me in the middle of the night. Over a month later and 2,000 kilometers further south, the crowd gathering around the video screen at the grocery store echoed exactly how much the King of Pop meant to the Middle Kingdom. ]]>
      
   </content>
</entry>
<entry>
   <title>Ritualized Drinking Kills Cadres</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2009/08/ritualized_drinking_kills_cadr.html" />
   <id>tag:blogs.princeton.edu,2009:/pia/personal/ttalhelm//501.9002</id>
   
   <published>2009-08-04T14:56:44Z</published>
   <updated>2011-12-06T00:18:04Z</updated>
   
   <summary>Chinese culture suffers little from dangerous college binge drinking like the US, yet China&amp;#8217;s ritualized banquet toasting culture managed to take the lives of two party officials this summer. According to a report in the South China Morning Post and...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Thomas Talhelm</name>
      
   </author>
         <category term="Cultural (Mis)Insights" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/">
      <![CDATA[Chinese culture suffers little from dangerous college binge drinking like the US, yet China's ritualized banquet toasting culture managed to take the lives of two party officials this summer. 

According to a report in the <em>South China Morning Post</em> and a <a href="http://www.radio86.co.uk/china-insight/news-today/11340/boozy-banquets-a-health-hazard-to-officials">report</a> on CRI, Wuhan's deputy director of water resources, Jin Guoqing, died of an alcohol-induced heart attack this July. A district chief in southern Guangdong province, Lu Yanpeng, fell into a coma and later died after a drinking round at a separate banquet. 

China's toasting culture is a way of showing respect to hosts by participating in <em>ganbei's</em>, cheers, and it reigns supreme at formal banquets. To refuse is considered a loss of face, and generally the higher a person's rank, the higher the number of subordinates lining up to clink glasses. 

According to the report, officials' "ganbei culture" wastes roughly 500 billion yuan in public funds each year&mdash;an expensive way to end two lives. ]]>
      
   </content>
</entry>
<entry>
   <title>China Reinvents the Toilet</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2009/07/china_reinvents_the_toilet.html" />
   <id>tag:blogs.princeton.edu,2009:/pia/personal/ttalhelm//501.8984</id>
   
   <published>2009-07-31T08:43:39Z</published>
   <updated>2010-03-25T17:30:54Z</updated>
   
   <summary>China has invented many objects, but Chinese culture is not known for its creativity and out-of-the-box thinking. No more respected China hand than Peter Hessler argued once that Chinese athletes excel particularly in competitions that involve repetition (e.g., synchronized diving)...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Thomas Talhelm</name>
      
   </author>
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/">
      <![CDATA[China has invented many objects, but Chinese culture is not known for its creativity and out-of-the-box thinking. No more respected China hand than Peter Hessler argued once that Chinese athletes excel particularly in competitions that involve repetition (e.g., synchronized diving) and struggle in competitions that involve quick off-the-cuff responses to changing situations (e.g., soccer). 

Yet a Chinese friend has recently unveiled his alternative theory for the use of toilets. This friend shall remain nameless, although I will add that his reinvention was discovered by another PiA fellow (whose story I am appropriating with permission). 

While traveling with this free-thinker, our PiA fellow noticed on multiple occasions that he would often leave the bathroom with urine left on the toilet seat. At first, our fellow assumed the runaway urine to be merely an accident. Yet the runaway urine's regular appearance on the seat caused him to realize that the maverick urine was actually finding its way onto the toilet seat because the owner had an alternative theory of how toilets are operated.

The alternative theory also explained why the friend often complained that Western toilets have two flaws:

1. The seat is dirty.

2. The seat is uncomfortable. 

It turns out, these complaints are caused by this alternative toilet theory. As a Western representative, I can say with confidence that the traditional Western theory of toilets is:

<br>
<img alt="Western%20Theory.jpg" src="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/Western%20Theory.jpg" width="316" height="289" />
<br>


The new theory reassigns the various parts of the toilet:

<br>

<img alt="New%20Theory.jpg" src="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/New%20Theory.jpg" width="377" height="304" />

<br>

And, in a way, it makes sense. The seat becomes a pee protector, protecting what is now the seat from any rogue urine.

It is perhaps a male-centric theory, but this alternative theory is fascinating for the fact that its internal logic actually quite nearly makes more sense than the way Western toilets are used around the world. Who says China's not a creative place?]]>
      
   </content>
</entry>
<entry>
   <title>The Unbearable Lightness of Leaving China</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2009/07/the_unbearable_lightness_of_le.html" />
   <id>tag:blogs.princeton.edu,2009:/pia/personal/ttalhelm//501.8983</id>
   
   <published>2009-07-30T08:33:47Z</published>
   <updated>2011-12-06T00:18:04Z</updated>
   
   <summary><![CDATA[When the canned music switched on in my first-class train compartment at 7AM, I was still more than an hour outside of Xi&#8217;an, China&#8217;s ancient capital&mdash;and the music still annoyed me. I sat up, leaned over the bunk across the...]]></summary>
   <author>
      <name>Thomas Talhelm</name>
      
   </author>
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/">
      <![CDATA[When the canned music switched on in my first-class train compartment at 7AM, I was still more than an hour outside of Xi'an, China's ancient capital&mdash;and the music still annoyed me. I sat up, leaned over the bunk across the aisle to the switchboard and turned off the music. This scene has repeated itself on numerous sleeper trains during my China travels, and today was no different. 

Yet when the train came to a stop in Xi'an and stepped into one of the three provinces I had yet to set foot in, the fact that I would be leaving China in nine days started to dawn on me. Suddenly, the weight of my three bags and my quixotic quest to bring out my guitar in one piece seemed lighter, easier. 

With so many bags to hold on to, I shifted my cell phone into the same pocket that my wallet was in. I used my free hand to cover my pocket from thieves patrolling the chaotic train station as I always have when entering faraway train stations. Yet besides my pre-cautions against thieves, most everything else was changing. Things that for two years ground on my consciousness now seemed funny, cute, in an "Oh, that crazy China!" way. 

Soon enough, the man shouting "<em>Laowai</em>!" at the foreigner overloaded with bags seemed to be chirping birdsong instead of singling out a foreigner. As an elderly woman's flying loogie nearly missed my sandaled feet, I smiled and nodded. "Morning <em>Taitai</em>!"   

I've loved living in China; I'm sad to leave; and I'm certain I will be back. But that doesn't change the fact that some of China's rough edges wear on me. Yet these travails lose their weight and become almost humorous when you face the door. ]]>
      
   </content>
</entry>
<entry>
   <title>Popped Collars and Other Chinese Inventions</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2009/07/popped_collars_and_other_chine.html" />
   <id>tag:blogs.princeton.edu,2009:/pia/personal/ttalhelm//501.8982</id>
   
   <published>2009-07-29T07:57:19Z</published>
   <updated>2011-12-06T00:18:04Z</updated>
   
   <summary>Yesterday I found myself angrily claiming the popped collar as an American invention. Yes, the popped collar, the reviled symbol of bonehead Neanderthalism that my house in university had once mocked for an entire evening at a Popped Collar Party...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Thomas Talhelm</name>
      
   </author>
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/">
      <![CDATA[Yesterday I found myself angrily claiming the <a href="http://media.photobucket.com/image/popped%20collar/Euxgnibs/Popped-Collar.jpg">popped collar</a> as an American invention. Yes, the popped collar, the reviled symbol of bonehead Neanderthalism that my house in university had once mocked for an entire evening at a Popped Collar Party that consisted mainly of Pabst Blue Ribbon and shotgun drinking contests. Yet here I was on the streets of Beijing defending the popped collar from a would-be popped-collar-claim. 

It's easy to pick up a competitiveness over inventions in China. Gunpowder, printing, and paper are integral to the Chinese consciousness simply because they are Chinese inventions&mdash;they originated in China, a land where origin is everything. 

Origins are so important that British historian <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joseph_Needham">Joseph Needham</a> (Chinese name 李约瑟) and his monumental work pinning dates on Chinese inventions earned him a spot as a Chinese national hero and <a href="http://baike.baidu.com/view/115045.htm">an entry on China's official Wikipedia</a>, Baidu Baike, that is four times as long as <a href="http://baike.baidu.com/view/1689.htm">Chairman Mao's</a>. 

Yet you don't have to travel across China like Needham did to figure out that origins are imprtant in China. I learned as from the 50-year-old man sporting a Beijing air conditioner and sharing a cup of tea with me in a <em>hutong</em> near my home who argued that my Beijing friend sitting beside me was not a real Beijinger&mdash;even though she had spent all but two of her years in Beijing&mdash;because my friend's family had <em>moved</em> there. His friend later repeated an argument for rank-ordering of nations that I here often in China: "How many years of history does America have? Just 300? No, less than that. 200." It's origin and seniority that count in the Middle Kingdom. 

Yet because of the peculiarities of trend setting in the Chinese world, my Beijing friend was convinced that popped collars had originated first in Taiwan, just as many trends that race through the mainland start first on an island not far away. I had assumed that popped collars had originated in a beer-soaked fraternity basement, which I was now claiming as proudly and distinctly American. 

Nowadays, Professor Needham isn't around to arbitrate our disagreement and show that popped collars first saw the light of day under the Tang Dynasty scholar and inventor Ao Lingzi (凹领子) in the 8th century, so I'll leave the matter undecided. 

I think it's best for all sides to not let matters of national pride rest on dates of inventions. And, for that matter, I take it back: Taiwan can have popped collars. ]]>
      
   </content>
</entry>
<entry>
   <title>Proving Beijing is New York (Again)</title>
   <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2009/07/proving_beijing_is_new_york_ag.html" />
   <id>tag:blogs.princeton.edu,2009:/pia/personal/ttalhelm//501.8977</id>
   
   <published>2009-07-24T05:36:34Z</published>
   <updated>2010-03-25T17:30:54Z</updated>
   
   <summary>Far be it from me to blow cow or toot my own horn, but a recent post on MSNBC claiming &amp;#8220;The New New York is Beijing&amp;#8221; reminded me a lot of an argument I made back in November of last...</summary>
   <author>
      <name>Thomas Talhelm</name>
      
   </author>
         <category term="One World, One Beijing" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
   
   
   <content type="html" xml:lang="en" xml:base="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/">
      <![CDATA[Far be it from me to <a href="http://www.nciku.cn/search/zh/detail/吹牛/1302355">blow cow</a> or toot my own horn, but<a href="http://worldblog.msnbc.msn.com/archive/2009/07/01/1984028.aspx"> a recent post on MSNBC claiming "The New New York is Beijing"</a> reminded me a lot of <a href="http://blogs.princeton.edu/pia/personal/ttalhelm/2008/11/why_beijing_is_new_york_city.html">an argument I made back in November of last year</a>. 

I'm clearly not the first to mention the similarity, just as <a href="http://edition.cnn.com/2008/WORLD/asiapcf/11/06/beijing.paris.nyc/index.html">this article argues that Beijing's changes right now parallel Paris and New York's</a>, although its posting date is November 10th, four days after the post above. (Not that anyone's counting)]]>
      
   </content>
</entry>

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